Captain Cook's Journal, First Voyage/Chapter 8

==CHAPTER 8. EXPLORATION OF EAST COAST OF AUSTRALIA.==


[April 1770.]

THURSDAY, 19th. In the P.M. had fresh Gales at South-South-West and
Cloudy Squally weather, with a large Southerly Sea; at 6 took in the
Topsails, and at 1 A.M. brought too and Sounded, but had no ground with
130 fathoms of line. At 5, set the Topsails close reef'd, and 6, saw
landThe south-east coast of Australia. See chart. extending from
North-East to West, distance 5 or 6 Leagues, having 80 fathoms, fine
sandy bottom. We continued standing to the Westward with the Wind at
South-South-West until 8, at which time we got Topgallant Yards a Cross,
made all sail, and bore away along shore North-East for the Eastermost
land we had in sight, being at this time in the Latitude of 37 degrees 58
minutes South, and Longitude of 210 degrees 39 minutes West. The
Southermost point of land we had in sight, which bore from us West 1/4
South, I judged to lay in the Latitude of 38 degrees 0 minutes South and
in the Longitude of 211 degrees 7 minutes West from the Meridian of
Greenwich. I have named it Point Hicks, because Lieutenant Hicks was the
first who discover'd this Land. To the Southward of this point we could
see no land, and yet it was clear in that Quarter, and by our Longitude
compared with that of Tasman's, the body of Van Diemen's land ought to
have bore due South from us, and from the soon falling of the Sea after
the wind abated I had reason to think it did; but as we did not see it,
and finding the Coast to trend North-East and South-West, or rather more
to the Westward, makes me Doubtfull whether they are one land or no.
Had not the gale on the day before forced Cook to run to the northward,
he would have made the north end of the Furneaux Group, and probably have
discovered Bass Strait, which would have cleared up the doubt, which he
evidently felt, as to whether Tasmania was an island or not. The fact was
not positively known until Dr. Bass sailed through the Strait in a
whale-boat in 1797. Point Hicks was merely a rise in the coast-line,
where it dipped below the horizon to the westward, and the name of Point
Hicks Hill is now borne by an elevation that seems to agree with the
position. However, every one who compares this Journal with that of
Tasman's will be as good a judge as I am; but it is necessary to observe
that I do not take the Situation of Vandiemen's from the Printed Charts,
but from the extract of Tasman's Journal, published by Dirk Rembrantse.
At Noon we were in the Latitude of 37 degrees 50 minutes and Longitude of
210 degrees 29 minutes West. The extreams of the Land extending from
North-West to East-North-East, a remarkable point, bore North 20 degrees
East, distant 4 Leagues. This point rises to a round hillock very much
like the Ramhead going into Plymouth sound, on which account I called it
by the same name; Latitude 37 degrees 39 minutes, Longitude 210 degrees
22 minutes West. The Variation by an Azimuth taken this morning was 8
degrees 7 minutes East. What we have as yet seen of this land appears
rather low, and not very hilly, the face of the Country green and Woody,
but the Sea shore is all a white Sand.

Friday, 20th. In the P.M. and most part of the night had a fresh Gale
Westerly, with Squalls, attended with Showers of rain. In the A.M. had
the Wind at South-West, with Severe weather. At 1 p.m. saw 3 Water Spouts
at once; 2 were between us and the Shore, and one at some distance upon
our Larboard Quarter. At 6, shortned sail, and brought too for the Night,
having 56 fathoms fine sandy bottom. The Northermost land in sight bore
North by East 1/2 East, and a small IslandGabo Island. lying close
to a point on the Main bore West, distant 2 Leagues. This point I have
named Cape HoweCape Howe, called after Admiral Earl Howe, is the
south-east point of Australia. The position is almost exact.; it may be
known by the Trending of the Coast, which is North on the one Side and
South-West on the other. Latitude 37 degrees 28 minutes South; Longitude
210 degrees 3 minutes West. It may likewise be known by some round hills
upon the main just within it. Having brought too with her head off Shore,
we at 10 wore, and lay her head in until 4 a.m., at which time we made
sail along shore to the Northward. At 6, the Northermost land in sight
bore North, being at this time about 4 Leagues from the Land. At Noon we
were in the Latitude of 36 degrees 51 minutes South and Longitude of 209
degrees 53 minutes West, and 3 Leagues from the land. Course sail'd along
shore since Yesterday at Noon was first North 52 degrees East, 30 miles,
then North by East and North by West, 41 Miles. The weather being clear
gave us an opportunity to View the Country, which had a very agreeable
and promising aspect, diversified with hills, ridges, plains, and
Valleys, with some few small lawns; but for the most part the whole was
covered with wood, the hills and ridges rise with a gentle slope; they
are not high, neither are there many of them.

[Off Cape Dromedary, New South Wales.]

Saturday, 21st. Winds Southerly, a Gentle breeze, and Clear weather, with
which we coasted along shore to the Northward. In the P.M. we saw the
smoke of fire in several places; a Certain sign that the Country is
inhabited. At 6, being about 2 or 3 Leagues from the land, we shortned
Sail, and Sounded and found 44 fathoms, a sandy bottom. Stood on under an
easey sail until 12 o'Clock, at which time we brought too until 4 A.M.,
when we made sail, having then 90 fathoms, 5 Leagues from the land. At 6,
we were abreast of a pretty high Mountain laying near the Shore, which,
on account of its figure, I named Mount Dromedary (Latitude 36 degrees 18
minutes South, Longitude 209 degrees 55 minutes West). The shore under
the foot of the Mountain forms a point, which I have named Cape
Dromedary, over which is a peaked hillock. At this time found the
Variation to be 10 degrees 42 minutes East. Between 10 and 11 o'Clock Mr.
Green and I took several Observations of the Sun and Moon, the mean
result of which gave 209 degrees 17 minutes West Longitude from the
Meridian of Greenwich. By observation made yesterday we were in the
Longitude 210 degrees 9 minutes. West 20 minutes gives 209 degrees 49
minutes the Longitude of the Ship to-day at noon per yesterday's
observation, the Mean of which and to-day's give 209 degrees 33 minutes
West, by which I fix the Longitude of this Coast. Our Latitude at Noon
was 35 degrees 49 minutes South; Cape Dromedary bore South 30 degrees
West, distant 12 Leagues. An Open BayBateman Bay. wherein lay 3 or
4 Small Islands, bore North-West by West, distant 5 or 6 Leagues. This
Bay seem'd to be but very little Shelter'd from the Sea Winds, and yet it
is the only likely Anchoring place I have yet seen upon the Coast.

Sunday, 22nd. In the P.M. had a Gentle breeze at South by West with which
we steer'd along shore North by East and North-North-East at the distance
of about 3 Leagues. Saw the smoke of fire in several places near the Sea
beach. At 5, we were abreast of a point of land which, on account of its
perpendicular Clifts, I call'd Point Upright; Latitude 35 degrees 35
minutes South; it bore from us due West, distant 2 Leagues, and in this
Situation had 31 fathoms, Sandy bottom. At 6, falling little wind, we
hauld off East-North-East; at this time the Northermost land in sight
bore North by East 1/2 East, and at midnight, being in 70 fathoms, we
brought too until 4 A.M., at which time we made sail in for the land, and
at daylight found ourselves nearly in the same Place we were at 5 o'Clock
in the evening, by which it was apparent that we had been drove about 3
Leagues to the Southward by a Tide or Current in the night. After this we
steer'd along shore North-North-East, having a Gentle breeze at
South-West, and were so near the Shore as to distinguish several people
upon the Sea beach. They appeared to be of a very dark or black Colour;
but whether this was the real Colour of their skins or the Cloathes they
might have on I know not. At Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude
of 35 degrees 27 minutes and Longitude 209 degrees 23 minutes; Cape
Dromedary bore South 28 degrees West, distance 15 Leagues. A remarkable
peak'd hill laying inland, the Top of which looked like a Pigeon house,
and occasioned my giving it that name, bore North 32 degrees 33 minutes
West, and a small low Island, laying close under the Shore, bore
North-West, distance 2 or 3 Leagues; Variation of the Compass 9 degrees
50 minutes East. When we first discover'd this Island in the morning I
was in hopes, from its appearance, that we should have found Shelter for
the Ship behind it; but when we came to approach it near I did not think
that there was even security for a Boat to land. But this, I believe, I
should have attempted had not the wind come on Shore, after which I did
not think it safe to send a Boat from the Ship, as we had a large hollow
Sea from the South-East rowling in upon the land, which beat every where
very high upon the Shore; and this we have had ever since we came upon
the Coast. The land near the Sea coast still continues of a moderate
height, forming alternately rocky points and Sandy beaches; but inland,
between Mount Dromedary and the Pigeon house, are several pretty high
Mountains, 2 only of which we saw but what were covered with Trees, and
these lay inland behind the Pigeon House, and are remarkably flat a Top,
with Steep rocky clifts all round them. As far as we could see the Trees
in this Country hath all the appearance of being stout and lofty. For
these 2 days past the observed Latitude hath been 12 or 14 Miles to the
Southward of the Ship's account given by the Log, which can be owing to
nothing but a Current set to the Southward.

Monday, 23rd. In the P.M. had a Gentle breeze at East, which in the night
veer'd to North-East and North. At 1/2 past 4 P.M., being about 5 Miles
from the Land, we Tack'd and stood off South-East and East until 4 A.M.,
at which time we Tack'd and stood in, being then about 9 or 10 Leagues
from the land. At 8, it fell little wind, and soon after Calm. At Noon we
were by Observation in the Latitude of 35 degrees 38 minutes and about 6
Leagues from the land, Mount Dromedary bearing South 37 degrees West,
distant 17 Leagues, and the Pidgeon house North 40 degrees West; in this
situation had 74 fathoms.

Tuesday, 24th. In the P.M. had Variable light Airs and Calms until 6
o'Clock, at which time a breeze sprung up at North by West; at this time
we had 70 fathoms Water, being about 4 or 5 Leagues from the land, the
Pidgeon house bearing North 40 degrees West, Mount Dromedary South 30
degrees West, and the Northermost land in sight North 19 degrees East.
Stood to the North-East until Noon, having a Gentle breeze at North-West,
at which time we Tack'd and stood to the Westward, being then, by
observation, in the Latitude of 35 degrees 10 minutes South and Longitude
208 degrees 51 minutes West. A point of land which I named Cape St.
George, we having discovered it on that Saint's day, bore West, distant
19 Miles, and the Pidgeon house South 7 degrees West, the Latitude and
Longitude of which I found to be 35 degrees 19 minutes South and 209
degrees 42 minutes West. In the morning we found the Variation to be, by
the Amplitude, 7 degrees 50 minutes East, by several Azimuths 7 degrees
54 minutes East.

[Off Jervis Bay, New South Wales.]

Wednesday, 25th. In the P.M. had a fresh breeze at North-West until 3
o'Clock, at which time it came to West, and we Tack'd and stood to the
Northward. At 5 o'Clock, being about 5 or 6 Leagues from the land, the
Pidgeon house bearing West-South-West, distant 9 Leagues, sounded and had
86 fathoms. At 8, being very squally, with lightning, we close reef'd the
Topsails and brought too, being then in 120 fathoms. At 3 A.M. made sail
again to the Northward, having the advantage of a fresh Gale at
South-West. At Noon we were about 3 or 4 Leagues from the land and in the
Latitude of 34 degrees 22 minutes and Longitude 208 degrees 36 minutes
West. Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday noon is North by East 49
Miles. In the Course of this day's run we saw the Smoke of fire in
several places near the Sea beach. About 2 Leagues to the Northward of
Cape St. George the Shore seems to form a bay,Jervis Bay, a very
fine port, but little use has been made of it up to the present time.
which appear'd to be shelter'd from the North-East winds; but as we had
the wind it was not in my power to look into it, and the appearance was
not favourable enough to induce me to loose time in beating up to it. The
North point of this bay, on account of its Figure, I nam'd Long Nose.
Latitude 45 degrees 4 minutes South, 8 Leagues to the Northward of this,
is a point which I call'd Red Point; some part of the Land about it
appeared of that Colour (Latitude 34 degrees 29 minutes South, Longitude
208 degrees 49 minutes West). A little way inland to the North-West of
this point is a round hill, the top of which look'd like the Crown of a
Hatt.

Thursday, 26th. Clear, serene weather. In the P.M. had a light breeze at
North-North-West until 5, at which time it fell Calm, we being then about
3 or 4 Leagues from the land and in 48 fathoms. Variation by Azimuth 8
degrees 48 minutes East, the extreams of the land from North-East by
North to South-West by South. Saw several smokes along shore before dark,
and 2 or 3 times a fire. In the Night we lay becalm'd, driving in before
the Sea, until one o'Clock A.M., at which time we got a breeze from the
land, with which we steer'd North-East, being then in 38 fathoms water.
At Noon it fell little Wind, and veer'd to North-East by North, we being
then in the Latitude of 34 degrees 10 minutes and Longitude 208 degrees
27 minutes West, and about 5 Leagues from the land, which extended from
South 37 degrees West to North 1/2 East. In this Latitude are some White
Clifts, which rise perpendicular from the Sea to a moderate height.

Friday, 27th. Var'ble light Airs between the North-East and North-West,
clear pleasant weather. In the P.M. stood off Shore until 2, then Tackt
and Stood in till 6, at which time we tack'd and stood off, being then in
54 fathoms and about 4 or 5 miles from the land, the Extreams of which
bore from South, 28 degrees West to North 25 degrees 30 minutes East. At
12 we tack'd and stood in until 4 A.M., then made a Trip off until day
light, after which we stood in for the land; in all this time we lost
ground, owing a good deal to the Variableness of the winds, for at Noon
we were by Observation in the Latitude of 34 degrees 21 minutes South,
Red Point bearing South 27 degrees West, distant 3 Leagues. In this
Situation we were about 4 or 5 Miles from the land, which extended from
South 19 degrees 30 minutes West to North 29 degrees East.

Saturday, 28th. In the P.M. hoisted out the Pinnace and Yawl in order to
attempt a landing, but the Pinnace took in the Water so fast that she was
obliged to be hoisted in again to stop her leakes. At this time we saw
several people a shore, 4 of whom where carrying a small Boat or Canoe,
which we imagin'd they were going to put in to the Water in order to Come
off to us; but in this we were mistaken. Being now not above 2 Miles from
the Shore Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Tupia, and myself put off in the Yawl,
and pull'd in for the land to a place where we saw 4 or 5 of the Natives,
who took to the Woods as we approached the Shore; which disappointed us
in the expectation we had of getting a near View of them, if not to speak
to them. But our disappointment was heightened when we found that we no
where could effect a landing by reason of the great Surf which beat
everywhere upon the shore. We saw haul'd up upon the beach 3 or 4 small
Canoes, which to us appeared not much unlike the Small ones of New
Zeland. In the wood were several Trees of the Palm kind, and no under
wood; and this was all we were able to observe from the boat, after which
we return'd to the Ship about 5 in the evening.The place where Cook
attempted to land is near Bulli, a place where there is now considerable
export of coal. A large coal port, Wollongong, lies a little to the
southward. At this time it fell Calm, and we were not above a Mile and a
half from the Shore, in 11 fathoms, and within some breakers that lay to
the Southward of us; but luckily a light breeze came off from the Land,
which carried us out of danger, and with which we stood to the Northward.
At daylight in the morning we discover'd a Bay,Botany Bay. which
appeared to be tollerably well shelter'd from all winds, into which I
resolved to go with the Ship, and with this View sent the Master in the
Pinnace to sound the Entrance, while we keept turning up with the Ship,
having the wind right out. At noon the Entrance bore North-North-West,
distance 1 Mile.

[At Anchor, Botany Bay, New South Wales.]

Sunday, 29th. In the P.M. wind Southerly and Clear weather, with which we
stood into the bay and Anchored under the South shore about 2 miles
within the Entrance in 5 fathoms, the South point bearing South-East and
the North point East. Saw, as we came in, on both points of the bay,
several of the Natives and a few hutts; Men, Women, and Children on the
South Shore abreast of the Ship, to which place I went in the Boats in
hopes of speaking with them, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and
Tupia. As we approached the Shore they all made off, except 2 Men, who
seem'd resolved to oppose our landing. As soon as I saw this I order'd
the boats to lay upon their Oars, in order to speak to them; but this was
to little purpose, for neither us nor Tupia could understand one word
they said. We then threw them some nails, beads, etc., a shore, which
they took up, and seem'd not ill pleased with, in so much that I thought
that they beckon'd to us to come ashore; but in this we were mistaken,
for as soon as we put the boat in they again came to oppose us, upon
which I fir'd a musquet between the 2, which had no other Effect than to
make them retire back, where bundles of their darts lay, and one of them
took up a stone and threw at us, which caused my firing a Second Musquet,
load with small Shott; and altho' some of the shott struck the man, yet
it had no other effect than making him lay hold on a Target. Immediately
after this we landed, which we had no sooner done than they throw'd 2
darts at us; this obliged me to fire a third shott, soon after which they
both made off, but not in such haste but what we might have taken one;
but Mr. Banks being of Opinion that the darts were poisoned, made me
cautious how I advanced into the Woods. We found here a few small hutts
made of the Bark of Trees, in one of which were 4 or 5 Small Children,
with whom we left some strings of beads, etc. A quantity of Darts lay
about the Hutts; these we took away with us. 3 Canoes lay upon the beach,
the worst I think I ever saw; they were about 12 or 14 feet long, made of
one piece of the Bark of a Tree, drawn or tied up at each end, and the
middle keept open by means of pieces of Stick by way of Thwarts. After
searching for fresh water without success, except a little in a Small
hole dug in the Sand, we embarqued, and went over to the North point of
the bay, where in coming in we saw several people; but when we landed now
there were nobody to be seen. We found here some fresh Water, which came
trinkling down and stood in pools among the rocks; but as this was
troublesome to come at I sent a party of men ashore in the morning to the
place where we first landed to dig holes in the sand, by which means and
a Small stream they found fresh Water sufficient to Water the Ship. The
String of Beads, etc., we had left with the Children last night were
found laying in the Hutts this morning; probably the Natives were afraid
to take them away. After breakfast we sent some Empty Casks a shore and a
party of Men to cut wood, and I went myself in the Pinnace to sound and
explore the Bay, in the doing of which I saw some of the Natives; but
they all fled at my Approach. I landed in 2 places, one of which the
people had but just left, as there were small fires and fresh Muscles
broiling upon them; here likewise lay Vast heaps of the largest Oyster
Shells I ever saw.

Monday, 30th. As Soon as the Wooders and Waterers were come on board to
Dinner 10 or 12 of the Natives came to the watering place, and took away
their Canoes that lay there, but did not offer to touch any one of our
Casks that had been left ashore; and in the afternoon 16 or 18 of them
came boldly up to within 100 yards of our people at the watering place,
and there made a stand. Mr. Hicks, who was the Officer ashore, did all in
his power to intice them to him by offering them presents; but it was to
no purpose, all they seem'd to want was for us to be gone. After staying
a Short time they went away. They were all Arm'd with Darts and wooden
Swords; the darts have each 4 prongs, and pointed with fish bones. Those
we have seen seem to be intended more for striking fish than offensive
Weapons; neither are they poisoned, as we at first thought. After I had
return'd from sounding the Bay I went over to a Cove on the North side of
the Bay, where, in 3 or 4 Hauls with the Sean, we caught about 300 pounds
weight of Fish, which I caused to be equally divided among the Ship's
Company. In the A.M. I went in the Pinnace to sound and explore the North
side of the bay, where I neither met with inhabitants or anything
remarkable. Mr. Green took the Sun's Meridian Altitude a little within
the South Entrance of the Bay, which gave the Latitude 34 degrees 0
minutes South.

[May 1770.]

Tuesday, May 1st. Gentle breezes, Northerly. In the P.M. 10 of the
Natives again visited the Watering place. I, being on board at this time,
went immediately ashore, but before I got there they were going away. I
follow'd them alone and unarm'd some distance along shore, but they would
not stop until they got farther off than I choose to trust myself. These
were armed in the same manner as those that came Yesterday. In the
evening I sent some hands to haul the Saine, but they caught but a very
few fish. A little after sunrise I found the Variation to be 11 degrees 3
minutes East. Last night Forby Sutherland, Seaman, departed this Life,
and in the A.M. his body Was buried ashore at the watering place, which
occasioned my calling the south point of this bay after his name. This
morning a party of us went ashore to some Hutts, not far from the
Watering place, where some of the Natives are daily seen; here we left
several articles, such as Cloth, Looking Glasses, Coombs, Beads, Nails,
etc.; after this we made an Excursion into the Country, which we found
diversified with Woods, Lawns, and Marshes. The woods are free from
underwood of every kind, and the trees are at such a distance from one
another that the whole Country, or at least great part of it, might be
Cultivated without being obliged to cut down a single tree. We found the
Soil every where, except in the Marshes, to be a light white sand, and
produceth a quantity of good Grass, which grows in little Tufts about as
big as one can hold in one's hand, and pretty close to one another; in
this manner the Surface of the Ground is Coated. In the woods between the
Trees Dr. Solander had a bare sight of a Small Animal something like a
Rabbit, and we found the Dung of an AnimalThis was the kangaroo.
which must feed upon Grass, and which, we judge, could not be less than a
Deer; we also saw the Track of a Dog, or some such like Animal. We met
with some Hutts and places where the Natives had been, and at our first
setting out one of them was seen; the others, I suppose, had fled upon
our Approach. I saw some Trees that had been cut down by the Natives with
some sort of a Blunt instrument, and several Trees that were barqued, the
bark of which had been cut by the same instrument; in many of the Trees,
especially the Palms, were cut steps of about 3 or 4 feet asunder for the
conveniency of Climbing them. We found 2 Sorts of Gum, one sort of which
is like Gum Dragon, and is the same, I suppose, Tasman took for Gum lac;
it is extracted from the largest tree in the Woods.

Wednesday, 2nd. Between 3 and 4 in the P.M. we return'd out of the
Country, and after Dinner went ashore to the watering place, where we had
not been long before 17 or 18 of the Natives appeared in sight. In the
morning I had sent Mr. Gore, with a boat, up to the head of the Bay to
drudge for Oysters; in his return to the Ship he and another person came
by land, and met with these people, who followed him at the Distance of
10 or 20 Yards. Whenever Mr. Gore made a stand and faced them they stood
also, and notwithstanding they were all Arm'd, they never offer'd to
Attack him; but after he had parted from them, and they were met by Dr.
Monkhouse and one or 2 more, who, upon making a Sham retreat, they
throw'd 3 darts after them, after which they began to retire. Dr.
Solander, I, and Tupia made all the haste we could after them, but could
not, either by words or Actions, prevail upon them to come near us, Mr.
Gore saw some up the Bay, who by signs invited him ashore, which he
prudently declined. In the A.M. had the wind in the South-East with rain,
which prevented me from making an Excursion up the head of the bay as I
intended.

Thursday, 3rd. Winds at South-East, a Gentle breeze and fair weather. In
the P.M. I made a little excursion along the Sea Coast to the Southward,
accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. At our first entering the
woods we saw 3 of the Natives, who made off as soon as they saw us; more
of them were seen by others of our people, who likewise made off as soon
as they found they were discover'd. In the A.M. I went in the Pinnace to
the head of the bay, accompanied by Drs. Solander and Monkhouse, in order
to Examine the Country, and to try to form some Connections with the
Natives. In our way thither we met with 10 or 12 of them fishing, each in
a Small Canoe, who retir'd into Shoald water upon our approach. Others
again we saw at the first place we landed at, who took to their Canoes,
and fled before we came near them; after this we took Water, and went
almost to the head of the inlet, were we landed and Travel'd some
distance in land. We found the face of the Country much the same as I
have before described, but the land much richer for instead of sand I
found in many places a deep black soil, which we thought was Capable of
producing any kind of grain. At present it produceth, besides Timber, as
fine Meadow as ever was seen; however, we found it not all like this,
some few places were very rocky, but this, I believe, to be uncommon. The
stone is sandy, and very proper for building, etc. After we had
sufficiently examin'd this part we return'd to the Boat, and seeing some
Smoke and Canoes at another part we went thither, in hopes of meeting
with the people, but they made off as we approached. There were 6 Canoes
and 6 small fires near the Shore, and Muscles roasting upon them, and a
few Oysters laying near; from this we conjectured that there had been
just 6 people, who had been out each in his Canoe picking up the Shell
fish, and come a Shore to eat them, where each had made his fire to dress
them by. We tasted of their Cheer, and left them in return Strings of
beads, etc. The day being now far spent, we set out on our return to the
Ship.

Friday, 4th. Winds northerly, serene weather. Upon my return to the Ship
in the evening I found that none of the Natives had Appear'd near the
Watering place, but about 20 of them had been fishing in their Canoes at
no great distance from us. In the A.M., as the Wind would not permit us
to sail, I sent out some parties into the Country to try to form some
Connections with the Natives. One of the Midshipmen met with a very old
man and Woman and 2 Small Children; they were Close to the Water side,
where several more were in their Canoes gathering of Shell fish, and he,
being alone, was afraid to make any stay with the 2 old People least he
should be discovr'd by those in the Canoes. He gave them a bird he had
Shott, which they would not Touch; neither did they speak one word, but
seem'd to be much frightned. They were quite Naked; even the Woman had
nothing to cover her nudities. Dr. Monkhouse and another Man being in the
Woods, not far from the watering place, discover'd 6 more of the Natives,
who at first seem'd to wait his coming; but as he was going up to them he
had a dart thrown at him out of a Tree, which narrowly escaped him. As
soon as the fellow had thrown the dart he descended the Tree and made
off, and with him all the rest, and these were all that were met with in
the Course of this day.

Saturday, 5th. In the P.M. I went with a party of Men over to the North
Shore, and while some hands were hauling the Sean, a party of us made an
Excursion of 3 or 4 Miles into the Country, or rather along the Sea
Coast. We met with nothing remarkable; great part of the Country for some
distance inland from the Sea Coast is mostly a barren heath, diversified
with Marshes and Morasses. Upon our return to the Boat we found they had
caught a great number of small fish, which the sailors call leather
Jackets on account of their having a very thick skin; they are known in
the West Indies. I had sent the Yawl in the morning to fish for Sting
rays, who returned in the Evening with upwards of four hundred weight;
one single one weigh'd 240 pounds Exclusive of the entrails. In the A.M.,
as the wind Continued Northerly, I sent the Yawl again a fishing, and I
went with a party of Men into the Country, but met with nothing
extraordinary.

[Description of Botany Bay, New South Wales.]

Sunday, 6th. In the evening the Yawl return'd from fishing, having Caught
2 Sting rays weighing near 600 pounds. The great quantity of plants Mr.
Banks and Dr. Solander found in this place occasioned my giving it the
Name of Botany Bay.The Bay was at first called Stingray Bay. The
plan of it at the Admiralty is called by this name, and none of the logs
know Botany Bay. It seems probable that Cook finally settled on the name
after the ship left, and when Banks had had time to examine his
collections. A monument was erected in 1870 near the spot, on the
southern side, where Cook first landed. Botany Bay was intended to be the
site where the first settlement of convicts should be made, but on the
arrival of Captain Phillip, on January 18th, 1788, he found it so
unsuited for the number of his colony that he started in a boat to
examine Broken Bay. On his way he went into Port Jackson, and immediately
decided on settling there. On the 25th and 26th the ships went round, and
Sydney was founded. It is situated in the Latitude of 34 degrees 0
minutes South, Longitude 208 degrees 37 minutes West. It is capacious,
safe, and Commodious; it may be known by the land on the Sea Coast, which
is of a pretty even and moderate height, Rather higher than it is inland,
with steep rocky Clifts next the Sea, and looks like a long Island lying
close under the Shore. The Entrance of the Bay lies about the Middle of
this land. In coming from the Southward it is discover'd before you are
abreast of it, which you cannot do in coming from the Northward; the
entrance is little more than a Quarter of a Mile broad, and lies in
West-North-West. To sail into it keep the South shore on board until
within a small bare Island, which lies close under the North Shore. Being
within that Island the deepest of Water is on that side, 7, 6 and 5
fathoms a good way up; there is Shoald Water a good way off from the
South Shore — from the inner South Point quite to the head of the harbour;
but over towards the North and North-West Shore is a Channell of 12 or 14
feet at low Water, 3 or 4 Leagues up, to a place where there is 3 or 4
fathoms; but there I found very little fresh Water. We Anchor'd near the
South Shore about a Mile within the Entrance for the Conveniency of
Sailing with a Southerly wind and the getting of Fresh Water; but I
afterwards found a very fine stream of fresh Water on the North shore in
the first sandy Cove within the Island, before which the Ship might lay
almost land locked, and wood for fuel may be got everywhere. Although
wood is here in great plenty, yet there is very little Variety; the
bigest trees are as large or larger than our Oaks in England, and grows a
good deal like them, and Yields a reddish Gum; the wood itself is heavy,
hard, and black like Lignum Vitae. Another sort that grows tall and
Strait something like Pines — the wood of this is hard and Ponderous, and
something of the Nature of America live Oak. These 2 are all the Timber
trees I met with; there are a few sorts of Shrubs and several Palm Trees
and Mangroves about the Head of the Harbour. The Country is woody, low,
and flat as far in as we could see, and I believe that the Soil is in
general sandy. In the Wood are a variety of very beautiful birds, such as
Cocatoos, Lorryquets, Parrots, etc., and crows Exactly like those we have
in England. Water fowl is no less plenty about the head of the Harbour,
where there is large flats of sand and Mud, on which they seek their
food; the most of these were unknown to us, one sort especially, which
was black and white, and as large as a Goose, but most like a Pelican.Most probably the Black and White or Semipalmated Goose, now
exterminated in these parts. On the sand and Mud banks are Oysters,
Muscles, Cockles, etc., which I believe are the Chief support of the
inhabitants, who go into Shoald Water with their little Canoes and peck
them out of the sand and Mud with their hands, and sometimes roast and
Eat them in the Canoe, having often a fire for that purpose, as I
suppose, for I know no other it can be for. The Natives do not appear to
be numerous, neither do they seem to live in large bodies, but dispers'd
in small parties along by the Water side. Those I saw were about as tall
as Europeans, of a very dark brown Colour, but not black, nor had they
woolly, frizled hair, but black and lank like ours. No sort of Cloathing
or Ornaments were ever seen by any of us upon any one of them, or in or
about any of their Hutts; from which I conclude that they never wear any.
Some that we saw had their faces and bodies painted with a sort of White
Paint or Pigment. Altho' I have said that shell fish is their Chief
support, yet they catch other sorts of fish, some of which we found
roasting on the fire the first time we landed; some of these they strike
with Gigs,A fishing implement like a trident. and others they catch
with hook and line; we have seen them strike fish with gigs, and hooks
and lines are found in their Hutts. Sting rays, I believe, they do not
eat, because I never saw the least remains of one near any of their Hutts
or fire places. However, we could know but very little of their Customs,
as we never were able to form any Connections with them; they had not so
much as touch'd the things we had left in their Hutts on purpose for them
to take away. During our stay in this Harbour I caused the English
Colours to be display'd ashore every day, and an inscription to be cut
out upon one of the Trees near the Watering place, setting forth the
Ship's Name, Date, etc. [Off Port Jackson, New South Wales.]Having seen
everything this place afforded, we, at daylight in the morning, weigh'd
with a light breeze at North-West, and put to Sea, and the wind soon
after coming to the Southward we steer'd along shore North-North-East,
and at Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 33 degrees 50
minutes South, about 2 or 3 Miles from the Land, and abreast of a Bay,
wherein there appear'd to be safe Anchorage, which I called Port
Jackson.Cook having completed his water at Botany Bay, and having
many hundreds of miles of coast before him, did not examine Port Jackson,
the magnificent harbour in which Sydney, the capital of New South Wales,
now lies. His chart gives the shape of what he could see very accurately,
but the main arm of the harbour is hidden from the sea. He named the bay
after Mr. (afterwards Sir George) Jackson, one of the Secretaries of the
Admiralty. This fact is recorded on a tablet in the Bishop Stortford
Church to the memory of Sir George Duckett, which name Sir George had
assumed in later years. This interesting evidence was brought to light by
Sir Alfred Stephen, Lieutenant-Governor of New South Wales, and puts an
end to the legend which was long current, that Port Jackson was named
after a sailor who first saw it. There was, moreover, no person of the
name of Jackson on board. It lies 3 leagues to the Northward of Botany
Bay. I had almost forgot to mention that it is high water in this Bay at
the full and change of the Moon about 8 o'Clock, and rises and falls upon
a Perpendicular about 4 or 5 feet.

Monday, 7th. Little wind, Southerly, and Serene pleasant Weather. In the
P.M. found the Variation by several Azimuths to be 8 degrees East; at
sunset the Northermost land in sight bore North 26 degrees East; and some
broken land that appear'd to form a bay bore North 40 degrees West,
distant 4 Leagues. This Bay I named Broken bay,The Hawkesbury River,
the largest on the east coast of Australia, runs into Broken Bay.
Latitude 33 degrees 36 minutes South. We steer'd along shore
North-North-East all night at the distance of about 3 Leagues from the
land, having from 32 to 36 fathoms, hard sandy bottom. A little after sun
rise I took several Azimuths with 4 Needles belonging to the Azimuth
Compass, the mean result of which gave the Variation of 7 degrees 56
minutes East. At Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 33
degrees 22 minutes South, and about 3 Leagues from the land, the
Northermost part of which in sight bore North 19 degrees East. Some
pretty high land which projected out in 3 bluff Points, and occasioned my
calling it Cape 3 Points (Latitude 33 degrees 33 minutes South), bore
South-West, distant 5 Leagues; Longitude made from Botany Bay 0 degrees
19 minutes East.

Tuesday, 8th. Variable Light Airs and Clear weather. In the P.M. saw some
smooks upon the Shore, and in the Evening found the Variation to be 8
degrees 25 minutes East; at this time we were about 2 or 3 Miles from the
land, and had 28 fathoms Water. Our situation at Noon was nearly the same
as Yesterday, having advanced not one Step to the Northward.

Wednesday, 9th. Winds northerly; most part a fresh breeze, with which we
stood off Shore until 12 at Night. At the distance of 5 Leagues from the
land had 70 fathoms, at the distance of 6 Leagues 80 fathoms, which is
the Extent of the Soundings, for at the Distance of 10 Leagues off we had
no ground with 150 fathoms. Stood in Shore until 8 o'Clock A.M., and
hardly fetched Cape Three Points; having a little wind at North-West by
North, we tack'd, and stood off until Noon, at which Time we Tack'd with
the wind at North-North-East, being then in the Latitude of 33 degrees 37
minutes South, Cape Three Points bearing North West by West, distance 4
Leagues.

Thursday, 10th. In the P.M., had the wind at North-East by North, with
which we stood in Shore until near 4 o'Clock, when we Tack'd in 23
fathoms Water, being about a Mile from the land, and as much to the
Southward of Cape 3 Points. In the night the wind veer'd to North-West
and West, and in the morning to South-West. Having the advantage of a
light Moon, we made the best of our way along shore to the Northward. At
Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 32 degrees 53 minutes
South, and Longitude 208 degrees 0 minutes West, and about 2 Leagues from
the land, which extended from North 41 degrees East to South 41 degrees
West. A small round rock or Island,Nobby Head, at the entrance of
Newcastle Harbour, formed by the Hunter River. Newcastle is the great
coal port of New South Wales. It has a population of 20,000, and exports
1,500,000 tons of coal in the year. laying close under the land, bore
South 82 degrees West, distance 3 or 4 Leagues. At sunrise in the Morning
found the Variation to be 8 degrees East. In the Latitude of 33 degrees 2
minutes South, a little way inland, is a remarkable hill, that is shaped
like the Crown of a Hatt, which we past about 9 o'Clock in the forenoon.

[Off Cape Hawke, New South Wales.]

Friday, 11th. Winds Southerly in the day, and in the night Westerly; a
Gentle breeze and Clear weather. At 4 P.M. past, at the distance of one
Mile, a low rocky point which I named Point Stephens (Latitude 32 degrees
45 minutes); on the North side of this point is an inlet which I called
Port StephensCalled after Mr. Stephens, one of the Secretaries to
the Admiralty. It is a large and fine harbour. (Latitude 32 degrees 40
minutes; Longitude 207 degrees 51 minutes), that appear'd to me from the
Masthead to be shelter'd from all Winds. At the Entrance lay 3 Small
Islands, 2 of which are of a Tolerable height, and on the Main, near the
shore, are some high round hills that make at a distance like Islands. In
passing this bay at the distance of 2 or 3 miles from the Shore our
soundings were from 33 to 27 fathoms; from which I conjectured that there
must be a sufficient depth of Water for Shipping in the bay. We saw
several smokes a little way in the Country upon the flat land; by this I
did suppose that there were Lagoons which afforded subsistance for the
Natives, such as shell-fish, etc., for we as yet know nothing else they
have to live upon. At 1/2 past 5, the Northermost land in sight bore
North 36 degrees East, and Point Stephens South-West, distant 4 Leagues,
at which time we took in our Steerings,Studding sails. and run
under an Easey sail all night until 4 A.M., when we made all sail; our
soundings in the night were fr Category: