om 48 to 62 fathoms, at the distance of
between 3 and 4 Leagues from the land. At 8 we were abreast of a high
point of Land, which made in 2 Hillocks; this point I called Cape HawkeAfter Admiral Sir Edward Hawke, First Lord of the Admiralty.
(Latitude 32 degrees 14 minutes South, Longitude 207 degrees 30 minutes
West). It bore from us at this time West distant 8 Miles, and the same
time the Northermost land in sight bore North 6 degrees East, and
appear'd high and like an Island. At Noon this land bore North 8 degrees
East, the Northermost land in sight North 13 degrees East, and Cape Hawke
South 37 degrees West. Latitude in per Observation 32 degrees 2 minutes
South, which was 12 Miles to the Southward of that given by the Log,
which I do suppose to be owing to a Current setting that way. Course and
distance sail'd since Yesterday at Noon was first North-East by East, 27
Miles, then North 10 degrees East, 37 Miles; Longitude in 207 degrees 20
minutes West; Variation per morning Amplitude and Azimuth 9 degrees 10
minutes East.
Saturday, 12th. Winds Southerly, a Gentle breeze in the P.M. As we run
along Shore we saw several smokes a little way in land from the Sea, and
one upon the Top of a hill, which was the first we have seen upon
elevated ground since we have been upon the Coast. At sunset we were in
23 fathoms, and about a League and a half from the land, the Northermost
part of which we had in sight bore North 13 degrees East; and 3
remarkable large high hills lying Contigious to each other, and not far
from the shore, bore North-North-West. As these Hills bore some
resemblance to each other we called them the 3 Brothers. We steer'd
North-East by North all Night, having from 27 to 67 fathoms, from 2 to 5
and 6 Leagues from the Land, and at day light we steer'd North for the
Northermost land we had in sight. At noon we were 4 Leagues from the
Land, and by observation in the Latitude of 31 degrees 18 minutes South,
which was 15 miles to the Southward of that given by the Log. Our Course
and distance made good since Yesterday noon was North 24 degrees East, 48
miles. Longitude 206 degrees 58 minutes West; several smokes seen a
little way in land.
Sunday, 13th. In the P.M. stood in shore with the Wind at North-East
until 6, at which time we Tack'd, being about 3 or 4 miles from the land,
and in 24 fathoms. Stood off shore with a fresh breeze at North and
North-North-West until midnight, then Tack'd, being in 118 fathoms and 8
Leagues from the Land. At 3 a.m. the wind veer'd to the Westward, and we
Tack'd and stood to the Northward. At noon we were by Observation in the
Latitude of 30 degrees 43 minutes South, and Longitude 206 degrees 45
minutes West, and about 3 or 4 Leagues from the Land, the Northermost
part of which bore from us North 13 degrees West; and a point or head
land, on which were fires that Caused a great Quantity of smoke, which
occasioned my giving it the name of Smokey Cape, bore South-West, distant
4 Leagues; it is moderately high land. Over the pitch of the point is a
round hillock; within it 2 others, much higher and larger, and within
them very low land (Latitude 30 degrees 51 minutes, Longitude 206 degrees
5 minutes West). Besides the smoke seen upon this Cape we saw more in
several places along the Coast. The observed Latitude was only 5 Miles to
the Southward of the Log.
Monday, 14th. At the P.M. it fell Calm, and continued so about an hour,
when a breeze sprung up at North-East, with which we stood in shore until
6 o'Clock, when, being in 30 fathoms and 3 or 4 Miles from the land, we
Tack'd, having the wind at North-North-West. At this time Smoky Cape bore
South 3/4 degrees West, distant about 5 Leagues, and the Northermost land
in sight North 1/4 degrees East. At 8 we made a Trip in shore for an
hour; after this the wind came off Shore, with which we stood along shore
to the Northward, having from 30 to 21 fathoms, at the distance of 4 or 5
Miles from the Land. At 5 A.M. the Wind veer'd to North, and blow'd a
fresh breeze, attended with Squalls and dark cloudy weather. At 8 it
began to Thunder and Rain, which lasted about an Hour, and then fell
Calm, which gave us an opportunity to sound, and found 86 fathoms, being
about 4 or 5 Leagues from the Land; after this we got the wind Southerly,
a fresh breeze and fair weather, and we Steer'd North by West for the
Northermost land we had in sight. At noon we were about 4 Leagues from
the land, and by observation in the Latitude of 30 degrees 22 minutes
South, which was 9 Miles to the Southward of that given by the Log.
Longitude in 206 degrees 39 minutes West, and Course and distance made
good since Yesterday Noon North 16 degrees East, 22 miles; some Tolerable
high land near the Shore bore West. As I have not mentioned the Aspect of
the Country since we left Botany Bay, I shall now describe it as it hath
at different times appear'd to us. As we have advanced to the Northward
the land hath increased in height, in so much that in this Latitude it
may be called a hilly Country; but between this and Botany Bay it is
diversified with an agreeable variety of Hills, Ridges, and Valleys, and
large plains all Cloathed with wood, which to all appearance is the same
as I have before mentioned, as we could discover no Visible alteration in
the Soil. Near the shore the land is in general low and Sandy, except the
points which are rocky, and over many of them are pretty high hills,
which at first rising out of the Water appear like a Island.
Tuesday, 15th. Fresh Gales at South-West, West-South-West, and
South-South-West. In the P.M. had some heavy Squalls, attended with rain
and hail, which obliged us to close reef our Topsails. Between 2 and 4 we
had some small rocky IslandsThe Solitary Islands. between us and
the land; the Southermost lies in the Latitude of 30 degrees 10 minutes,
the Northermost in 29 degrees 58 minutes, and about 2 Leagues or more
from the land; we sounded, and had 33 fathoms about 12 Miles without this
last island. At 8 we brought too until 10, at which time we made sail
under our Topsails. Having the Advantage of the Moon we steer'd along
shore North and North by East, keeping at the distance of about 3 Leagues
from the land having from 30 to 25 fathoms. As soon as it was daylight we
made all the sail we could, having the Advantage of a fresh Gale and fair
weather.During the night the entrance of the Clarence River, now the
outlet for the produce of a large and rich agricultural district, was
passed, and in the morning that of the Richmond River, which serves a
similar purpose. At 9, being about a League from the Land, we saw upon
it people and Smoke in Several places. At noon we were by observation in
the Latitude of 28 degrees 39 minutes South, and Longitude 206 degrees 27
minutes West; Course and distance saild since Yesterday at Noon North 6
degrees 45 minutes East, 104 Miles. A Tolerable high point of land bore
North-West by West, distant 3 Miles; this point I named Cape Byron
Captain John Byron was one of Cook's predecessors in exploration in the
Pacific, having sailed round the World in H.M.S. Dolphin, in company with
the Tamar, in 1764 to 1766. (Latitude 28 degrees 37 minutes 30 seconds
South, Longitude 206 degrees 30 minutes West). It may be known by a
remarkable sharp peaked Mountain lying in land North-West by West from
it. From this point the land Trends North 13 degrees West. Inland it is
pretty high and hilly, but near the Shore it is low; to the Southward of
the Point the land is low, and Tolerable level.
[Off Point Danger, New South Wales.]
Wednesday, 16th. Winds Southerly, a fresh Gale, with which we steer'd
North along shore until sunset, at which time we discover'd breakers
ahead, and on our Larboard bow, being at this time in 20 fathoms, and
about 5 miles from the land. Haul'd off East until 8, at which time we
had run 8 Miles, and had increased our Depth of Water to 44 fathoms. We
then brought too with her head to the Eastward, and lay on this Tack
until 10 o'Clock, when, having increased our Soundings to 78 fathoms, we
wore and lay with her head in shore until 5 o'Clock a.m., when we made
Sail. At daylight we were surprized by finding ourselves farther to the
Southward than we were in the evening, and yet it had blown strong all
night Southerly. We now saw the breakers again within us, which we passed
at the distance of about 1 League; they lay in the Latitude of 28 degrees
8 minutes South, and stretch off East 2 Leagues from a point under which
is a small Island; their situation may always be found by the peaked
mountain before mentioned, which bears South-West by West from them, and
on their account I have named it Mount Warning. It lies 7 or 8 Leagues in
land in the Latitude of 28 degrees 22 minutes South. The land is high and
hilly about it, but it is Conspicuous enough to be distinguished from
everything else. The point off which these shoals lay I have named Point
Danger;Point Danger is the boundary point on the coast between New
South Wales and Queensland. to the Northward of it the land, which is
low, Trends North-West by North; but we soon found that it did not keep
that direction long before it turn'd again to the Northward. At Noon we
were about 2 Leagues from the land, and by observation in the Latitude of
27 degrees 46 minutes, which was 17 Miles to the Southward of the Log;
Longitude 206 degrees 26 minutes West. Mount Warning bore South 20
degrees West, distant 14 Leagues; the Northermost land in sight bore
North. Our Course and distance made good since yesterday North 1 degree
45 minutes West, 53 miles.
[Off Moreton Bay, Queensland.]
Thursday, 17th. Winds Southerly, mostly a fresh breeze, with which in the
P.M. we steer'd along shore North 3/4 East, at the distance of about 2
Leagues off. Between 4 and 5 we discover'd breakers on our Larboard bow;
our Depth of Water at this time was 37 fathoms. At sunset the Northermost
land in sight bore North by West, the breakers North-West by West,
distant 4 Miles, and the Northermost land set at Noon, which form'd a
Point, I named Point Lookout, bore West, distant 5 or 6 Miles (Latitude
27 degrees 6 minutes).There is some mistake in this latitude. It
should be 27 degrees 26 minutes. On the North side of this point the
shore forms a wide open bay, which I have named Morton's Bay,James,
Earl of Morton, was President of the Royal Society in 1764, and one of
the Commissioners of Longitude. in the Bottom of which the land is so
low that I could but just see it from the Topmast head. The breakers I
have just mentioned lies about 3 or 4 Miles from Point Lookout; at this
time we had a great Sea from the Southward, which broke prodigious high
upon them. Stood on North-North-East until 8, when, being past the
breakers, and having Deepned our water to 52 fathoms, we brought too
until 12 o'Clock, then made sail to the North-North-East. At 4 A.M. we
sounded, and had 135 fathoms. At daylight I found that we had in the
night got much farther to the Northward and from the Shore than I
expected from the Course we steer'd, for we were at least 6 or 7 Leagues
off, and therefore hauled in North-West by West, having the Advantage of
a Fresh Gale at South-South-West. The Northermost land seen last night
bore from us at this time South-South-West, distant 6 Leagues. This land
I named Cape Morton, it being the North point of the Bay of the same Name
(Latitude 26 degrees 56 minutes South, Longitude 206 degrees 28 minutes).
From Cape Morton the Land Trends away West, further than we could see,
for there is a small space where we could see no land; some on board
where of opinion that there is a River there because the Sea looked paler
than usual. Upon sounding we found 34 fathoms fine white sandy bottom,
which alone is Sufficient change, the apparent Colour of Sea Water,
without the Assistance of Rivers. The land need only to be low here, as
it is in a Thousand other places upon the Coast, to have made it
impossible for us to have seen it at the distance we were off. Be this as
it may, it was a point that could not be clear'd up as we had the wind;
but should any one be desirous of doing it that may come after me, this
place may always be found by 3 Hills which lay to the Northward of it in
the Latitude of 26 degrees 53 minutes South. These hills lay but a little
way inland, and not far from Each other; they are very remarkable on
account of their Singular form of Elivation, which very much resembles
Glass Houses,The Glass houses form a well-known sea mark on entering
Moreton Bay, as the name is now written. Brisbane, the capital of
Queensland, stands on the river of the same name, which falls into
Moreton Bay. which occasioned my giving them that Name. The Northermost
of the 3 is the highest and largest. There are likewise several other
peaked hills inland to the Northward of these, but they are not near so
remarkable. At Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude of 26 degrees
28 minutes South, which was 10 Miles to the Northward of the Log; a
Circumstance that hath not hapned since we have been upon the Coast
before. Our Course and distance run since Yesterday noon was North by
West 80 Miles, which brought us into the Longitude of 206 degrees 46
minutes. At this time we were about 2 or 3 Leagues from the land, and in
24 fathoms Water; a low bluff point, which was the Southern point of an
open Sandy bay,Laguna Bay. The point is called Low Bluff. bore
North 52 degrees West, distant 3 Leagues, and the Northermost point of
land in sight bore North 1/4 East. Several Smokes seen to-day, and some
pretty far inland.
Friday, 18th. In steering along shore at the distance of 2 Leagues off
our Soundings was from 24 to 32 fathoms Sandy bottom. At 6 P.M. the North
point set at Noon bore North 1/4 West; distant 4 Leagues; at 10 it bore
North-West by West 1/2 West, and as we had seen no land to the Northward
of it we brought too, not knowing which way to steer, having at this time
but little wind, and continued so for the most part of the night. At 2
P.M. we made sail with the wind at South-West, and at daylight saw the
land extending as far as North 3/4 East. The point set last night bore
South-West by West, distant 3 or 4 Leagues; I have named it Double Island
Point, on account of its figure (Latitude 25 degrees 58 minutes South,
Longitude 206 degrees 48 minutes West). The land within this point is of
a moderate and pretty equal height, but the point itself is of such an
unequal Height that it looks like 2 Small Islands laying under the land;
it likewise may be known by the white Clifts on the North side of it.
Here the land trends to the North-West, and forms a large open bay,
Wide Bay. in the bottom of which the land appear'd to be very low, in so
much that we could but just see it from the Deck. In crossing the mouth
of this bay our Depth of Water was from 30 to 32 fathoms, a white sandy
bottom. At Noon we were about 3 Leagues from the Land, and in the
Latitude of 25 degrees 34 minutes South, Longitude 206 degrees 45 minutes
West; Double Island Point bore South 3/4 West, and the Northermost land
in sight North 3/4 East. The land hereabouts, which is of a moderate
height, appears more barren than any we have yet seen on this Coast, and
the Soil more sandy, there being several large places where nothing else
is to be seen; in other places the woods look to be low and Shrubby, nor
did we see many signs of inhabitants.
Saturday, 19th. In the P.M. had Variable light Airs, and Calms; in the
night had a light breeze from the land, which in the A.M. veer'd to
South-West and South-South-West. In the evening found the Variation to be
8 degrees 36 minutes East, and in the Morning 8 degrees 20 minutes; as we
had but little wind we keept to the Northward all night, having from 23
to 27 fathoms fine sandy bottom, at the Distance of 2 or 3 Leagues from
the Land. At Noon we were about 4 Miles from it, and by observation in
the Latitude of 25 degrees 4 minutes, and in this situation had but 13
fathoms; the Northermost land in Sight bore North 21 degrees West,
distant 8 Miles; our Course and distance saild since yesterday at Noon
was North 13 degrees 15 minutes East, 31 Miles.
[Off Sandy Cape, Queensland.]
Sunday, 20th. Winds Southerly, Gentle breezes. At 10 p.m. we passed, at
the distance of 4 Miles, having 17 fathoms, a black bluff head or point
of land, on which a number of the Natives were Assembled, which
occasioned my naming it Indian Head; Latitude 25 degrees 0 minutes North
by West, 4 Miles from this head, is another much like it. From this last
the land Trends a little more to the Westward, and is low and Sandy next
the Sea, for what may be behind it I know not; if land, it must be all
low, for we could see no part of it from the Mast head. We saw people in
other places besides the one I have mentioned; some Smokes in the day and
fires in the Night. Having but little wind all Night, we keept on to the
Northward, having from 17 to 34 fathoms, from 4 Miles to 4 Leagues from
the Land, the Northermost part of which bore from us at daylight
West-South-West, and seem'd to End in a point, from which we discover'd a
Reef stretching out to the Northward as far as we could see, being, at
this time, in 18 fathoms; for we had, before it was light, hauld our Wind
to the Westward, and this course we continued until we had plainly
discover'd breakers a long way upon our Lee Bow, which seem'd to Stretch
quite home to the land. We then Edged away North-West and
North-North-West, along the East side of the Shoal, from 2 to 1 Miles
off, having regular, even Soundings, from 13 to 7 fathoms; fine sandy
bottom. At Noon we were, by Observation, in the Latitude of 24 degrees 26
minutes South, which was 13 Miles to the Northward of that given by the
Log. The extream point of the Shoal we judged to bear about North-West of
us; and the point of land above-mentioned bore South 3/4 West, distant 20
Miles. This point I have named Sandy Cape,Sandy Cape is the northern
point of Great Sandy Island. A long narrow channel separates the latter
from the mainland, and opens at its northern end into Harvey Bay, a great
sheet of water 40 miles across. This channel is now much used by the
coasting trade, as it avoids the long detour round Breaksea Spit, a most
dangerous shoal. on account of 2 very large white Patches of Sand upon
it. It is of a height Sufficient to be seen 12 Leagues in Clear weather
(Latitude 24 degrees 46 minutes, Longitude 206 degrees 51 minutes West);
from it the Land trends away West-South-West and South-West as far as we
could see.
Monday, 21st. In the P.M. we keept along the East side of the Shoal until
2, when, judging there was water for us over, I sent a Boat a Head to
sound, and upon her making the Signal for more than 5 fathoms we hauld
our wind and stood over the Tail of it in 6 fathoms. At this time we were
in the Latitude of 24 degrees 22 minutes South, and Sandy Cape bore South
1/2 East, distant 8 Leagues; but the Direction of the Shoal is nearest
North-North-West and South-South-East. At this time we had 6 fathoms; the
boat which was not above 1/4 of a mile to the Southward of us had little
more than 5 fathoms. From 6 fathoms we had the next Cast, 13, and then 20
immediately, as fast as the Man could heave the Lead; from this I did
suppose that the West side of the Shoal is pretty steep too, whereas on
the other side we had gradual Soundings from 13 to 7 fathoms. This Shoal
I called Break Sea Spit, because now we had smooth water, whereas upon
the whole Coast to the Southward of it we had always a high Sea or swell
from the South-East. At 6, the Land of Sandy Cape extending from South 17
degrees East to South 27 degrees East, distance 8 Leagues; Depth of
Water, 23 fathoms, which depth we keept all Night, as we stood to the
Westward with light Airs from the Southward; but between 12 and 4 A.M. we
had it Calm, after which a Gentle breeze sprung up at South, with which
we still keept on upon a Wind to the Westward. At 7 we Saw from the
Masthead the Land of Sandy Cape bearing South-East 1/2 East, distance 12
or 13 Leagues. At 9, we discover'd from the Mast head land to the
Westward, and soon after saw smooke upon it. Our depth of Water was now
decreased to 17 fathoms, and by Noon to 13, at which time we were by
observation in the Latitude of 24 degrees 28 minutes South, and about 7
Leagues from the Land, which extended from South by West to
West-North-West. Longitude made from Sandy Cape 0 degrees 45 minutes
West.
For these few days past we have seen at times a sort of Sea fowl we have
no where seen before that I remember; they are of the sort called
Boobies. Before this day we seldom saw more than 2 or 3 at a time, and
only when we were near the land. Last night a small flock of these birds
passed the Ship and went away to the North-West, and this morning from
1/2 an hour before sun rise to half an hour after, flights of them were
continually coming from the North-North-West, and flying to the
South-South-East, and not one was seen to fly in any other direction.
From this we did suppose that there was a Lagoon, River, or Inlet of
Shallow Water to the Southward of us, where these birds resorted to in
the day to feed, and that not very far to the Northward lay some Island,
where they retir'd too in the night.
Tuesday, 22nd. In the P.M. had a Gentle breeze at South-East, with which
we stood in for the land South-West until 4, when, being in the Latitude
of 24 degrees 36 minutes South, and about 2 Leagues from land, in 9
fathoms, we bore away along shore North-West by West; at the same time we
could see the land extending to the South-South-East about 8 Leagues.
Near the Sea the land is very low, but inland are some moderately high
hills, and the whole appeared to be thickly Cloathed with wood. In
running along shore we shoalded our Water from 9 to 7 fathoms, and at one
time had but 6 fathoms, which determined me to Anchor for the Night, and
accordingly at 8 o'Clock we came too in 8 fathoms, fine gravelly bottom,
about 5 miles from the land. This evening we saw a Water Snake, and 2 or
3 evenings ago one lay under the Ship's Stern some time; this was about 1
1/2 Yards in length, and was the first we had seen. At 6 A.M. weighed
with a Gentle breeze Southerly, and Steer'd North-West 1/4 West, edging
in for the land until we got Within 2 Miles of it, having from 7 to 11
fathoms; we then steer'd North-North-West as the land laid. At Noon we
were by Observation in the Latitude of 24 degrees 19 minutes South;
Longitude made from Sandy Cape 1 degree 14 minutes West.
[At Anchor. Bustard Bay, Queensland.]
Wednesday, 23rd. Continued our Course alongshore at the distance of about
2 Miles off, having from 12 to 9, 8 and 7 fathoms, until 5 o'Clock, at
which time we were abreast of the South point of a Large open Bay,
Bustard Bay. wherein I intended to Anchor. Accordingly we hauld in Close
upon a Wind, and sent a boat ahead to sound; after making some Trips we
Anchored at 8 o'Clock in 5 fathoms, a Sandy bottom. The South point of
the bay bore East 3/4 South, distant 2 Miles; the North point North-West
1/4 North, about 2 Miles from the shore, in the bottom of the bay. Last
night, some time in the Middle watch, a very extraordinary affair hapned
to Mr. Orton, my Clerk. He having been drinking in the evening, some
Malicious person or persons in the Ship took Advantage of his being
Drunk, and cut off all the Cloaths from off his back; not being satisfied
with this, they some time after went into his Cabin and cut off a part of
both his Ears as he lay a Sleep in his Bed. The person whom he suspected
to have done this was Mr. Magra, one of the Midshipmen; but this did not
appear to me. Upon enquiry, however, as I had been told that Magra had
once or twice before this in their drunken Frolicks cut off his cloaths,
and had been heard to say (as I was told) that if it was not for the Law
he would Murder him, these things consider'd, induced me to think that
Magra was not Altogether innocent. I therefore for the present dismiss'd
him the Quarter deck, and Suspended him from doing any duty in the Ship,
he being one of those Gentlemen frequently found on board King's Ships
that can very well be spared; besides, it was necessary in me to show my
immediate resentment against the person on whom the suspicion fell, least
they should not have stop'd here. With respect to Mr. Orton, he is a man
not without faults; yet from all the inquiry I could make, it evidently
appear'd to me that so far from deserving such Treatment, he had not
designed injuring any person in the Ship; so that I do — and shall
always — look upon him as an injured man. Some reasons, however, might be
given why this misfortune came upon him, in which he himself was in some
measure to blame; but as this is only conjecture, and would tend to fix
it upon some people in the Ship, whom I would fain believe would hardly
be guilty of such an Action, I shall say nothing about it, unless I shall
hereafter discover the Offenders, which I shall take every method in my
power to do, for I look upon such proceedings as highly dangerous in such
Voyages as this, and the greatest insult that could be offer'd to my
Authority in this Ship, as I have always been ready to hear and redress
every complaint that have been made against any Person in the Ship.
This history of Mr. Orton's misadventure is omitted from the Admiralty
copy. It is an illustration of the times to note that the fact of Orton
having got drunk does not seem to call for the Captain's severe censure.
In these days, though the practical joker receives punishment, the
drunkard would certainly come in for a large share also.
In the A.M. I went ashore with a party of men in order to Examine the
Country, accompanied by Mr. Banks and the other Gentlemen; we landed a
little within the South point of the Bay, where there is a Channel
leading into a large Lagoon. The first thing that I did was to sound and
examine the Channell, in which I found 3 fathoms, until I got about a
Mile up it, where I met with a Shoal, whereon was little more than one
fathom; being over this I had 3 fathoms again. The Entrance into this
Channell lies close to the South point of this Bay, being form'd on the
East by the Shore, and on the West by a large Spit of sand; it is about a
1/4 of a Mile broad, and lies in South by West; here is room for a few
Ships to lay very secure, and a small Stream of Fresh Water. After this I
made a little excursion into the Woods while some hands made 3 or 4 hauls
with the Sean, but caught not above a dozen very small fish. By this time
the flood was made, and I imbarqued in the Boats in order to row up the
Lagoon; but in this I was hindred by meeting everywhere with Shoal Water.
As yet we had seen no people, but saw a great deal of Smook up and on the
West side of the Lagoon, which was all too far off for us to go by land,
excepting one; this we went to and found 10 Small fires in a very small
Compass, and some Cockle Shells laying by them, but the people were gone.
On the windward or South side of one of the fires was stuck up a little
Bark about a foot and a half high, and some few pieces lay about in other
places; these we concluded were all the covering they had in the Night,
and many of them, I firmly believe, have not this, but, naked as they
are, sleep in the open air. Tupia, who was with us, observed that they
were Taata Eno's; that is, bad or poor people. The Country is visibly
worse than at the last place we were at; the soil is dry and Sandy, and
the woods are free from underwoods of every kind; here are of the same
sort of Trees as we found in Bottany Harbour, with a few other sorts. One
sort, which is by far the most Numerous sort of any in the Woods, grow
Something like birch; the Bark at first sight looks like birch bark, but
upon examination I found it to be very different, and so I believe is the
wood; but this I could not examine, as having no axe or anything with me
to cut down a Tree. About the Skirts of the Lagoon grows the true
Mangrove, such as are found in the West Indies, and which we have not
seen during the Voyage before; here is likewise a sort of a palm Tree,
which grows on low, barren, sandy places in the South Sea Islands. All,
or most of the same sort, of Land and Water fowl as we saw at Botany
Harbour we saw here; besides these we saw some Bustards, such as we have
in England, one of which we kill'd that weighed 17 1/2 pounds, which
occasioned my giving this place the Name of Bustard Bay (Latitude 24
degrees 4 minutes, Longitude 208 degrees 22 minutes West); we likewise
saw some black and white Ducks. Here are plenty of small Oysters sticking
to the Rocks, Stones, and Mangrove Trees, and some few other shell fish,
such as large Muscles, Pearl Oysters, Cockels, etc. I measured the
perpendicular height of the last Tide, and found it to be 8 foot above
low water mark, and from the time of low water to-day I found that it
must be high Water at the full and Change of the Moon at 8 o'Clock.
Thursday, 24th. In the P.M. I was employ'd ashore in the Transactions
before related; at 4 a.m. we weighed with a Gentle breeze at South, and
made sail out of the Bay. In standing out our soundings were from 5 to 15
fathoms; when in this last Depth we were abreast of the North Point, and
being daylight we discover'd breakers stretching out from it about
North-North-East, 2 or 3 miles; at the Outermost point of them is a Rock
just above Water. In passing these rocks at the distance of 1/2 a mile we
had from 15 to 20 fathoms; being past them, we hauld along shore
West-North-West for the farthest land we had in sight. At Noon we were by
Observation in the Latitude of 23 degrees 52 minutes South; the North
part of Bustard Bay bore South 62 degrees East, distance 10 miles, and
the Northermost land in sight North 60 degrees West. Longitude in 208
degrees 37 minutes West, distance from the nearest shore 6 Miles; in this
situation had 14 fathoms water.
[Off Cape Capricorn, Queensland.]
Friday, 25th. In the P.M. had it calm until 5, when a light breeze sprung
up at South-East, and we steer'd North-West as the land lay until 10,
then brought too, having had all along 14 and 15 fathoms. At 5 A.M. we
made sail; at daylight the Northermost point of the Main bore North 70
degrees West, and soon after we saw more land making like Islands,
bearing North-West by North; at 9 we were abreast of the point, distant
from it 1 mile; Depth of Water 14 fathoms. I found this point to lay
directly under the Tropic of Capricorn, and for that reason call it by
that Name. Longitude 209 degrees 0 minutes West. It is of a Moderate
height, and looks white and barren, and may be known by some Islands
which lie to the North-West of it, and some small Rocks one League
South-East from it; on the West side of the Cape there appeared to be a
Lagoon. On the 2 Spits which form the Entrance were a great Number of
Pelicans; at least, so I call them. The most northermost land we could
see bore from Cape Capricorn North 24 degrees West, and appeared to be an
Island;Hummocky Island. but the Main land Trended West by North 1/2
North, which Course we steer'd, having from 15 to 16 fathoms and from 6
to 9, a hard sandy bottom. At Noon our Latitude by Observation was 23
degrees 24 minutes South; Cape Capricorn bore South 60 degrees East,
distance 2 Leagues; a small Island North by East 2 Miles. In this
Situation had 9 fathoms at the distance of 4 Miles from the Main land,
which is here low and Sandy next the Sea, except the points which are
moderately high and rocky; in land the Country is hilly, and affords but
a very indifferent prospect.Between Bustard Bay and Cape Capricorn
is Port Curtis, in which stands the small town of Gladstone. Cape
Capricorn is the eastern point of Curtis Island, and to the northward is
Keppel Bay, into which falls the Fitzroy River. Up the latter, 35 miles
from the sea, is Rockhampton, the second largest town of Queensland. All
this coast is encumbered with shoals, outside of which Cook had so far
prudently kept. To seaward begins the long chain of islands and reefs
known as the Great Australian Barrier, which stretches up to Torres
Straits. Cook was unaware of their existence, as they were out of sight,
but he became painfully acquainted with them later, where the reefs
approach the land, and make navigation along the coast anxious work; but
he here began to get into difficulties with the shoals which stretch off
the coast itself.
Saturday, 26th. In the P.M. light breezes at East-South-East, with which
we stood to the North-West until 4 o'Clock, when it fell calm, and soon
after we Anchored in 12 fathoms. Cape Capricorn bearing South 54 degrees
East, distant 4 Leagues, having the Main land and Islands in a manner all
around us. In the night we found the tide to rise and fall near 7 feet,
and the flood to set to the Westward and Ebb to the Eastward; which is
quite the reverse to what we found it when at Anchor to the Eastward of
Bustard Bay. At 6 a.m. we weigh'd with the Wind at South, a Gentle
breeze, and stood away to the North-West, between the Outermost range of
IslandsThe Keppel Islands. and the Main land, leaving several small
Islands between us and the Latter, which we passed Close by. Our
soundings was a little irregular, from 12 to 4 fathoms, which caused me
to send a Boat ahead to sound. At noon we were about 3 Miles from the
Main, about the same distance from the Islands without us; our Latitude
by Observation was 23 degrees 7 minutes South, and Longitude made from
Cape Capricorn 18 Miles West. The Main land in this Latitude is tolerable
high and Mountainious; and the Islands which lay off it are the most of
them pretty high and of a Small Circuit, and have more the appearance of
barrenness than fertility. We saw smookes a good way in land, which makes
me think there must be a River, Lagoon, or Inlet, into the Country, and
we passed 2 places that had the Appearance of such this morning; but our
Depth of Water at that Time was too little to haul in for them, where I
might expect to meet with less.
Sunday, 27th. We had not stood on to the Northward quite an hour before
we fell into 3 fathoms, upon which I anchor'd, and Sent away the Master
with 2 Boats to sound the Channell, which lay to Leeward of us between
the Northermost Island and the Main Land, which appear'd to me to be
pretty broad; but I suspected that it was Shoal, and so it was found, for
the Master reported to me upon his return that he found in many places
only 2 1/2 fathoms, and where we lay at Anchor we had only 16 feet, which
was not 2 feet more than the Ship drew.This was between Great Keppel
Island and the Main. There is a mass of shoals here. In the Evening the
wind veer'd to East-North-East, which gave us an opportunity to stretch 3
or 4 miles back the way we Came before the Wind Shifted to South, and
obliged us again to Anchor in 6 fathoms. At 5 o'Clock in the A.M. I sent
away the Master with 2 Boats to search for a Passage out between the
Islands, while the Ship got under sail. As soon as it was light the
Signal was made by the boats of their having found a Passage, upon which
we hoisted in the Boats, and made sail to the Northward as the land lay;
soundings from 9 to 15 fathoms, having still Some small Islands without
us.The ship passed out between Great Keppel Island and North Keppel
Island. At noon we were about 2 Leagues from the Main Land, and by
observation in the Latitude of 22 degrees 53 minutes South, Longitude
made from Cape Capricorn 0 degrees 20 minutes West. At this time the
Northermost point of Land we had in sight bore North-North-West, distance
10 Miles; this point I named Cape Manyfold, from the Number of high Hills
over it; Latitude 22 degrees 43 minutes South; it lies North 20 degrees
West, distant 17 Leagues from Cape Capricorn. Between them the shore
forms a large Bay, which I call'd Keppel Bay, and the Islands which lay
in and Off it are known by the same name; in this Bay is good Anchorage,
where there is a sufficient depth of Water; what refreshment it may
afford for Shipping I know not.As before mentioned, the Fitzroy
River falls into Keppel Bay, and forms a good harbour, though much
encumbered with sand banks. We caught no fish here, notwithstanding we
were at Anchor; it can hardly be doubted but what it afforded fresh Water
in several places, as both Mainland and Islands are inhabited. We saw
smokes by day and fires in the night upon the Main, and people upon one
of the Islands.
[Off Cape Townshend, Queensland.]
Monday, 28th. Winds at South-South-East, a fresh breeze. At 3 o'Clock in
the P.M. we passed Cape Manifold, from which the Land Trends
North-North-West. The land of this Cape is tolerable high, and riseth in
hills directly from the Sea; it may be known by 3 Islands laying off it,
one near the Shore, and the other 2 Eight Miles out at Sea; the one of
these is low and flat, and the other high and round.Peak and Flat
Islands. At 6 o'Clock we shortned sail and brought too; the Northermost
part of the Main we had in sight bore North-West, and some Islands lying
off it bore North 31 degrees West; our soundings since Noon were from 20
to 25 fathoms, and in the Night 30 and 34 fathoms. At day light we made
Sail, Cape Manifold bearing South by East, distance 8 Leagues, and the
Islands set last night in the same directions, distance from us 4 Miles.
The farthest point of the Main bore North 67 degrees West, distant 22
Miles; but we could see several Islands to the Northward of this
direction.The easternmost of the Northumberland Islands. At 9
o'Clock we were abreast of the above point, which I named Cape TownshendCharles Townshend was Chancellor of the Exchequer 1767. (Latitude 22
degrees 13 minutes, Longitude 209 degrees 48 minutes West); the land of
this Cape is of a moderate and pretty even height, and is more barren
than woody. Several Islands lay to the Northward of it, 4 or 5 Leagues
out at Sea. 3 or 4 Leagues to the South-East the Shore forms a bay,
Shoalwater Bay, a large inlet. in the bottom of which there appeared to
be an inlet or Harbour to the Westward of the Coast, and Trends
South-West 1/2 South; and these form a very large Bay, which turns away
to the Eastward, and probably communicates with the Inlet above
mentioned, and by that Means makes the land of the Cape an Island. As
soon as we got round the Cape we hauld our wind to the Westward in order
to get within the Islands which lay scatter'd up and down in this bay in
great number, and extend out to Sea as far as we could see from the
Masthead; how much farther will hardly be in my power to determine; they
are as Various in their height and Circuit as they are numerous.The
Northumberland islands, a very extensive group. We had not stood long
upon a Wind before we meet with Shoal Water, and was obliged to Tack
about to avoid it; after which I sent a boat ahead, and we bore away West
by North, leaving many small Islands, Rocks, and Shoals between us and
the Main, and a number of Large Islands without us; soundings from 14 to
17 fathoms, Sandy Bottom. A little before noon the boat made the Signal
for meeting with Shoal Water, upon which we hauld close upon a Wind to
the Eastward, but suddenly fell into 3 1/4 fathoms water, upon which we
immediately let go an Anchor, and brought the Ship up with all sails
standing, and had then 4 fathoms Coarse sandy bottom. We found here a
strong Tide setting to the North-West by West 1/2 West, at the rate of
between 2 and 3 Miles an Hour, which was what Carried us so quickly upon
the Shoal. Our Latitude by Observation was 22 degrees 8 minutes South;
Cape Townshend bore East 16 degrees South, distant 13 Miles, and the
Westermost part of the Main Land in sight West 3/4 North, having a number
of Islands in sight all round us.The ship was on the Donovan Shoal
in Broad Sound Channel.
Tuesday, 29th. Fresh gales between the South-South-East and
East-South-East, Hazey weather, with some showers of rain. In the P.M.,
having sounded about the Ship, and found that their was Sufficient Water
for her over the Shoal, we at 3 o'clock weigh'd and made Sail, and stood
to the Westward as the Land lay, having first sent a boat ahead to sound.
At 6 we Anchor'd in 10 fathoms, Sandy bottom, about 2 Miles from the Main
Land, the Westermost part of which bore West-North-West, having still a
Number of Islands in sight a long way without us. At 5 a.m. I sent away
the Master with 2 Boats to sound the Entrance of an inlet, which bore
from us West, distance about 1 League, into which I intended to go with
the Ship to wait a few days, until the Moon increased, and in the
meantime to examine the Country. By such time as we had got the Ship
under Sail the Boats made the Signal for Anchorage, upon which we stood
in with the Ship, and Anchor'd in 5 fathoms, about a League within the
Entrance of the inlet, which we judged to be a River running a Good way
inland, as I observed the Tides to flow and Ebb something considerable.It is in reality a narrow channel which runs into Broad Sound. I had
some thoughts of laying the Ship a Shore to Clean her bottom. With this
view both the Master and I went to look for a Convenient place for that
purpose, and at the same time to look for fresh Water, not one drop of
which we could find, but met with several places where a Ship might be
laid ashore with safety.
[At Anchor, Thirsty Sound.]
Wednesday, 30th. In the P.M. I went again in search of Fresh Water, but
had no better success than before; wherefore I gave over all thoughts of
laying the Ship a Shore, being resolved to spend as little time as
possible in a place that was likely to afford us no sort of refreshment.
But as I had observed from the Hills the inlet to run a good way in, I
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