Captain Cook's Journal, First Voyage/Chapter 9

==CHAPTER 9. FROM TORRES STRAIT TO BATAVIA.==


[August 1770.]

FRIDAY, 24th. In the P.M. had light Airs from the South-South-West, with
which, after leaving Booby Island, as before mentioned, we steer'd
West-North-West until 5 o'clock, when it fell Calm, and the Tide of Ebb
which sets to the North-East soon after making, we Anchor'd in 8 fathoms
soft sandy bottom, Booby Island bearing South 50 degrees East, distant 5
miles; Prince of Wales Isles extending from North-East by North to South
55 degrees East. There appear'd to be an open clear passage between these
Islands extending from North 64 degrees East to East by North. At 1/2
past 5 in the morning in purchasingWeighing the anchor. the Anchor,
the Cable parted about 8 or 10 fathoms from the Anchor; I immediately
order'd another Anchor to be let go, which brought the ship up before she
had drove a cable's length from the Buoy; after this we carried out a
Kedge, and warped the ship nearer to it, and then endeavour'd to sweep
the Anchor with a Hawser, but miss'd it, and broke away the Buoy rope.The kedge is a small anchor. Sweeping is dragging the middle of a
rope, or hawser, held at the two ends from two boats some distance apart,
along the bottom, with the object of catching the fluke of the anchor as
it lies on the bottom, and so recovering it. It is a long and wearisome
operation if the bottom is uneven. Cook, however, having already lost one
of his large anchors, could not afford to leave this without an effort.
We made several Attempts afterwards, but did not succeed. While the Boats
were thus employed we hove up the Kedge Anchor, it being of no more use.
At Noon Latitude observed 10 degrees 30 minutes South. Winds at
North-East, a fresh breeze; the Flood Tide here comes from the same
Quarter.

Saturday, 25th. Winds at North-East and East-North-East, a gentle breeze.
Being resolv'd not to leave the Anchor behind while there remain'd the
least probability of getting of it, after dinner I sent the Boats again
to sweep for it first with a small line, which succeeded, and now we
know'd where it lay we found it no very hard matter to sweep it with a
Hawser. This done, we hove the Ship up to it by the same Hawser, but just
as it was almost up and down the Hawser slip'd, and left us all to do
over again. By this time it was dark, and obliged us to leave off until
daylight in the morning, when we sweep'd it again, and hove it up to the
bows, and by 8 o'Clock weigh'd the other anchor, got under sail, and
stood away North-West, having a fresh breeze at East-North-East. At Noon
we were by observation in the Latitude of 10 degrees 18 minutes South,
Longitude 219 degrees 39 minutes West, having no land in sight, but about
2 miles to the Southward of us lay a Shoal,Cook Reef. on which the
Sea broke, and I believe a part of it dry. At low Water it extended
North-West and South-East, and might be about 4 or 5 Leagues in Circuit;
depth of Water at this time and since we weigh'd 9 fathoms.


Image:Track of Endeavour.jpg|600px
TRACK OF ENDEAVOUR FROM TORRES STRAIT TO JAVA. AUGUST AND SEPTEMBER 1770.


Sunday, 26th. Fresh breezes at East in standing to the North-West. We
began to Shoalden our water from 9 to 7 fathoms, and at 1/2 past one,
having run 11 Miles since Noon, the boat which was a head made the signal
for Shoal Water, immediately upon which we let go an Anchor, and brought
the Ship up with the sails standing as the boats was but a little way
ahead, having but just relieved the Crew, and at same time we saw from
the Ship Shoal WaterCook Shoal. in a manner all round us, and both
wind and Tide setting upon it. We lay in 6 fathoms with the Ship, but
upon sounding about her found hardly 2 fathoms, a very rocky bottom, not
much above 1/2 a cable's length from us from the east round by the North
and West as far as South-West, so that there was no way to get clear but
the way we came. This was one of the many Fortunate Escapes we have had
from Shipwreck, for it was near high water, and there run a short
cockling sea that would soon have bulged the Ship had she struck. These
Shoals that lay a fathom or 2 under Water are the most dangerous of any,
for they do not shew themselves until you are close upon them, and then
the water upon them looks brown like the reflection of dark clouds.
Between 3 and 4 the Ebb began to make, when I sent the Master to sound to
the Southward and South Westward, and in the meantime, as the Ship
tended,Swung to the tide. hove up the Anchor, and with a little
Sail stood to the Southward and afterwards edged away to the Westward,
and got once more out of danger, where at sun set we Anchor'd in 10
fathoms Sandy bottom. Having a fresh of wind at East-South-East, at 6
o'clock in the morning we weighed and stood West, with a fresh of wind at
East, having first sent a boat ahead to sound. I did intend to have
steer'd North-West until we had made the Coast of New Guinea, designing
if Possible to touch upon that Coast, but the meeting with these Shoals
last night made me Alter the Course to West, in hopes of meeting with
fewer dangers and deeper Water; and this we found, for by Noon we had
deepned our water gradually to 17 fathoms, and this time we were by
observation in the Latitude of 10 degrees 10 minutes South, Longitude 220
degrees 12 minutes West. Course and distance sail'd since yesterday at
noon North 76 degrees West, 11 Leagues, no land in sight.

[Off South Coast of New Guinea.]

Monday, 27th. Fresh breezes between the East by North and
East-South-East, with which we steer'd West until sun set; depth of Water
from 27 to 23 fathoms. We now Reef'd the Topsails, shortened Sail, and
hoisted in the pinnace and Long boat up alongside, and afterwards kept
upon a Wind all night under our Topsails, 4 hours on one Tack and four
hours on the other; depth of Water 25 fathoms, very even soundings. At
daylight made all the Sail we could, and steer'd West-North-West until 8
o'clock, then North-West; at Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude
of 9 degrees 56 minutes South, Longitude 221 degrees 00 minutes West;
Variation 2 degrees 30 minutes East. Course and distance sail'd since
yesterday at Noon North 73 degrees 33 minutes West, 49 miles.

Tuesday, 28th. Fresh breezes at East and East by South and fair weather.
Continued a North-West Course until sun set, at which time we shortned
sail, and haul'd close upon a Wind to the Northward; depth of Water 21
fathoms. At 8 Tack'd and stood to the Southward until 12, then stood to
the Northward under little Sail until daylight, sounding from 25 to 17
fathoms; Shoalding as we stood to the Northward. At this time we made
sail and steer'd North in order to make the land of New Guinea; from the
time of our making sail until noon the depth of Water gradually decreased
from 17 to 12 fathoms, a stony and shelly bottom. We were now by
Observation in the Latitude of 8 degrees 52 minutes South, which is in
the same Parrallel as the Southern parts of New Guinea as it is laid down
in the Charts; but there are only 2 points so far to the South, and I
reckon we are a degree to the Westward of both, and for that reason do
not see the Land which trends more to the Northward. Our Course and
distance sail'd since Yesterday is North-North-West, 69 Miles; Longitude
in 221 degrees 27 minutes West. The Sea in many places is here cover'd
with a kind of a brown scum, such as Sailors generally call spawn; upon
our first seeing it it alarm'd us, thinking we were among Shoals, but we
found the same depth of Water were it was as in other places; neither Mr.
Banks nor Dr. Solander could tell what it was, altho' they had of it to
Examine.

Wednesday, 29th. Continued standing to the Northward, with a fresh gale
at East by South and South-East until 6 o'clock, having very irregular
and uncertain soundings from 24 to 7 fathoms. At 4 we made the Land from
the Mast head, bearing North-West by North, and which appear'd to be very
low. At 6 it extended from West-North-West to North-North-East, distant 4
or 5 Leagues. At this time hauld close upon a wind to the Eastward until
7 o'clock, then Tack'd and stood to the Southward until 12, at which time
we wore and stood to the Northward until 4, then lay her Head off until
daylight, when we again saw the Land, and stood North-North-West directly
for it, having a fresh gale at East by South. Our Soundings in the night
were from 17 to 5 fathoms, very irregular, without any sort of Rule with
respect to our distance from the Land. At 1/2 past 6 a small low island,
laying about a League from the Main, bore North by West, distant 5 miles;
this island lays in the Latitude of 8 degrees 13 minutes South, Longitude
221 degrees 25 minutes West. I find it laid down in the Charts by the
Name of St. Bartholomew or Whermoysen. We now steer'd North-West by West,
West-North-West, West by North, West by South, and South-West by West, as
we found the land to lay, having a Boat ahead of the Ship sounding; depth
of water from 5 to 9 fathoms. When in 7, 8 or 9 fathoms we could but just
see the Land from the Deck; but I did not think we were at above 4
Leagues off, because the land is exceeding low and level, and appeared to
be well cover'd with wood; one sort appeared to us to be Cocoa Nutt
Trees. By the Smookes we saw in different parts as we run along shore we
were assured that the Country is inhabited. At Noon we were about 3
Leagues from the land, the Westermost part of which that we could see
bore South 79 degrees West; our Latitude by Observation was 8 degrees 19
minutes South, Longitude 221 degrees 44 minutes West. The Island, St.
Bartholomew, bore North 74 degrees East, distant 20.The ship was now
off the south coast of New Guinea, and near what is known as Princess
Marianne Strait, which separates Frederick Henry Island from the main
island. All this coast is very shallow, but very imperfectly charted to
the present day.

Thursday, 30th. Fresh breezes at South-East, East-South-East, and East by
South. After steering South-West by West, 6 miles, we discover'd on our
Starboard bow and ahead a Strong appearance of Shoal Water, and by this
time we had Shoald our water from 10 to 5 fathoms; upon which I made the
Pinnace Signal to Edge down to it, but she not going far enough, we sent
the Yawl to sound in it, and at the same time hauld off close upon a
Wind, with the Ship until 4, at which time we had run 6 Miles, but did
not depen our water anything. We then Edged away South-West, 4 Miles
more, but finding still Shoal Water we brought too, and call'd the Boats
on board by Signal, hoisted them in, and then hauld off close upon a
wind, being at this time about 3 or 4 Miles from the Land. The Yawl found
only 3 fathoms water in the place where I sent her to sound, which place
I weather'd about 1/2 a mile. Between 1 and 2 we passed a Bay or Inlet,
before which lies a small Island that seems to Shelter it from the
Southerly winds; but I very much doubt their being Water behind it for
Shipping. I could not attempt it because the South-East Trade wind blows
right in, and we have not as yet had any land breezes. We stretched off
to Sea until 12 o'Clock, at which time we were 10 and 11 Leagues from the
Land, and had depen'd our Water to 29 fathoms; we now tack'd and stood in
until 4 o'Clock, when, being in 6 1/2 fathoms, we tack'd and lay her head
off until day light, at which time we saw the land bearing North-West by
West, distant about 4 Leagues. We now made sail and steer'd
West-South-West, and then West by South, but coming into 54 fathoms we
hauld off South-West until we depen'd our Water to 8 fathoms; we then
keept away West by South and West, having 9 fathoms and the Land just in
sight from the Deck, which we judged not above 3 or 4 Leagues off, as it
is everywhere exceeding low. At Noon we were by Observation in the
Latitude of 8 degrees 38 minutes South, Longitude 222 degrees 34 minutes
West. St. Bartholomew Isle bore North 69 degrees East, distant 74 Miles.

[Off Cape Walsche, New Guinea.]

Friday, 31st. Between 12 and 1 in the P.M. Steer'd North-North-West, in
which time we Shoalded our Water from 8 to 5 1/2, which I thought was
little enough, and therefore keept away again West, and soon depen'd it
to 7 fathoms, which depth we keept until 6, having the land just in sight
from the Deck. At this time the Western Extream bore North, distant about
4 Leagues, and Seem'd to end in a point and turn away to the Northward;
we took it to be Point St. Augustine or Walsche Caep, Latitude 8 degrees
24 minutes South, Longitude 222 degrees 55 minutes West.This
position is correct. Mr. Green had been assiduously observing lunars, and
it appears strange that the error of the position of the north point of
Australia was not discovered; but doubtless the discrepancy was put down
to current. We now shortned sail and hauld off South-South-West and
South by West, having the wind at South-East and South-East by East, a
Gentle breeze; we stood off 16 Miles, having from 7 to 27 fathoms,
deepning gradually as we run off. At midnight we Tacked and stood in
until daylight, at which time we could see no land, and yet we had only 5
1/2 fathoms. We now Steer'd North-West, having the same deepth of Water
until near 9 o'Clock, when we began to Depen our Water to 6 1/2 and 7
fathoms. By this I thought that we were far Enough to the Westward of the
Cape, and might haul to the Northward with Safety, which we now did,
having the Wind at North-East by East, a light breeze. By Noon we had
increased our Water to 9 fathoms, and were by Observation in the Latitude
of 8 degrees 10 minutes South, which was 10 Miles to the Northward of
that given by the Log; by which I conjectur'd that we had meet with a
strong Current setting round the Cape, not only to the Northward, but to
the Westward also, otherwise we ought to have seen the Land, which we did
not.

[September 1770.]

Saturday, 1st September. In the P.M. and most part of the night had a
fresh breeze from the South-East with which we keept standing in for the
land North-East and East-North-East, close upon a wind, until half past
6, when we Anchor'd in 4 1/2 fathoms, soft muddy bottom, as we have every
were found upon the Coast. About an hour before we Anchor'd we saw the
land from the Mast head extending from the East by North to
South-South-East, all very low; at the time we Anchor'd we found a small
dreanDrain. of a Tide setting away to the North-West, which
continued until 2 in the morning, when the Water had fell 9 feet or
better. This Tide of Ebb was then succeeded by the Flood, which came from
the South-West; yet we did not find the Water to rise much upon a
perpendicular, or else the greatest fall of the Tide had not been well
attended to in the night, for at 6, when we got under sail, we had no
more than 3 fathoms under the ship, and yet we could not see the land
from the Deck. After getting under sail we stood to the Northward with a
light breeze at East, and deepned our Water by noon to 10 fathoms, having
the Land just in sight from the Mast head to the South-East. At this time
we were in the Latitude of 7 degrees 39 minutes South, Longitude 222
degrees 42 minutes West; Port St. Augustine bore South 10 degrees West,
distant 15 Leagues.

Sunday, 2nd. In the P.M. had Calm until 2, when a light breeze sprung up
at North by East, and we stood in for the Land East by North until 5, at
which time we got the wind from the South-West, a light breeze, with
which we steer'd North-East, edging in for the land, having it in sight
from the Deck, and which I judged to be about 3 or 4 Leagues off, being
very low land. Found the Variation to be 2 degrees 34 minutes East, and a
little before 8 o'Clock, having but little wind, we Anchor'd in 7
fathoms, soft Muddy bottom. In the Afternoon and evening we saw several
Sea Snakes, some of which the people in the Boat alongside took up by
hand. At daylight in the Morning we got under sail, and stood away to the
North-North-East, having a fresh gale at East, which by noon brought us
into the Latitude of 7 degrees 14 minutes South, Longitude 222 degrees 30
minutes West; Depth of Water 13 fathoms. Course and distance sail'd since
Yesterday Noon is North 24 degrees East, 27 Miles, having at this time no
land in sight, for the Land, according to the Charts, trends more
Easterly than the Wind would permit us to sail.

Monday, 3rd. Steer'd North by East, with a fresh breeze at East by North
until 7 in the Evening, when the wind came to South-East by South, with
which we keept standing to the Eastward close upon a wind all Night,
having from 17 to 10 fathoms pretty even Soundings. At daylight we saw
the land extending from North by East to South-East, distant about 4
Leagues. We still keept standing in for it, having the advantage of a
fresh gale at East-South-East and East by South, until near 9, when,
being about 3 or 4 Miles off, and in 3 fathoms, we brought too and I went
ashore in the pinnace, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, having
a mind to land once in this Country before we quit it Altogether, which I
now am determin'd to do without delay; for I found that it is only
spending time to little purpose, and carrying us far out of our way,
staying upon this Coast, which is so shallow that we can hardly keep
within sight of land.

[Land in New Guinea.]

At the time we put off from the Ship we saw not the least sign of
inhabitants; but we had no sooner landed than we saw the print of Men's
feet fresh upon the sand, and a little way farther we found a small Shed
or Hutt, about which lay green shells of Cocoa Nutts. By this we were
well assured that the inhabitants were not far off; nay, we thought we
heard their Voices in the woods, which were so close and thick that we
did not think it safe to venture in, for fear of an Ambuscade, as we had
only a Boat's crew with us, a part of which were left to look after the
boat, which lay about a 1/4 of a Mile from the Shore. We therefore took a
walk upon the Sea beach, but had not gone above 200 Yards before we were
attack'd by 3 or 4 Men, who came out of the woods a little before us, but
upon our firing upon them they retir'd. Finding that we could not search
the Country with any degree of Safety, we return'd to the boat, and was
followed by 60, or, as some thought, about 100, of the Natives, who had
advanced in small parties out of the woods; but they suffer'd us to go to
our boats without giving us any trouble. We had now time to view them
attentively; we thought them to be about the size and Colour of the New
Hollanders, with short, Cropt Hair, and quite naked like them. I thought
these of a lighter Colour; but that may be owing to a whitish Pigment
with which we thought their bodies were painted, because some appeared
darker than others.

Their Arms were ordinary darts of about 4 feet long, made of a kind of
reed, and pointed at one end with hard wood; but what appear'd more
extraordinary to us was something they had which caused a flash of fire
or Smoak, very much like the going off of a pistol or small Gun, but
without any report. The deception was so great that the people in the
Ship actually thought that they had fire Arms; indeed, they seem'd to use
these things in imitation of such, for the moment the first man we saw
made his appearance he fir'd off one of these things, and while we lay
looking at them in the boat 4 or 5 would let them off all at once, which
had all the appearance in the world of Volleys of Small Arms; but I am
confident that nothing came from them but smook, but by what means this
was done, or what purpose it answer'd, we were not able to Guess. I
thought the Combustable matter was contain'd in a reed or piece of small
Bamboo, which they gave a Swing round in the hand and caused it to go
off.The natives carry hollow canes with burning tinder for making
fires.

This place lies in the Latitude of 6 degrees 15 minutes South, about 65
Leagues to the North-East of Point St. Augustine, or Walsche Caep, and is
near to what is called in the Charts by the long name of Cape de la Colta
de St. Bonaventura.Cook's landing place in New Guinea, on the
western side of this great island, was on a part of the coast scarcely
known to this day. It is in the part of the island claimed by the Dutch.
Cook's insatiable desire to explore is well shown in this digression from
his course to Batavia. The land is very low, like every other part of
the Coast we have seen here; it is thick and Luxuriously cloathed with
woods and Verdure, all of which appear Green and flourishing. Here were
Cocoa nutt Trees, Bread Fruit Trees, and Plantain Trees, but we saw no
fruit but on the former, and these were small and Green; the other Trees,
Shrubs, Plants, etc., were likewise such as is common in the South Sea
Islands and in New Holland.

Upon my return to the Ship we hoisted in the boat and made sail to the
Westward, with a design to leave the Coast altogether. This, however, was
contrary to the inclination and opinion of some of the Officers, who
would have had me send a Party of Men ashore to cut down the Cocoa Nutt
Trees for the sake of the Nutts; a thing that I think no man living could
have justified, for as the Natives had attacked us for meer landing
without taking away one thing, certainly they would have made a Vigerous
effort to have defended their property; in which case many of them must
have been kill'd, and perhaps some of our own people too, and all this
for 2 or 300 Green Cocoa Nutts, which, when we had got them, would have
done us little service; besides nothing but the utmost necessity would
have obliged me to have taken this method to come at refreshments.

It's true I might have gone farther along the Coast to the Northward and
Westward until we had found a place where the Ship could lay so near the
Shore as to cover the people with her Guns when landed; but it is very
probable that before we had found such a place we should have been
carried so far to the West as to have been obliged to have gone to
Batavia by the way of the Moluccas, and on the North side of Java, where
we were all utter Strangers. This I did not think was so safe a Passage
as to go to the South of Java and thro' the Straits of Sunda, the way I
propose to myself to go. Besides, as the Ship is leakey, we are not yet
sure wether or no we shall not be obliged to heave her down at Batavia;
in this case it becomes the more necessary that we should make the best
of our way to that place, especially as no new discovery can be Expected
to be made in these Seas, which the Dutch have, I believe, long ago
narrowly examin'd, as appears from 3 Maps bound up with the French
History of Voyages to the Terra Australis, published in 1756,De
Brye's Voyages. which Maps, I do suppose, by some means have been got
from the Dutch, as we found the Names of many of the places are in that
Language.

It should likewise seem from the same Maps that the Spaniards and Dutch
have at one time or another circumnavigated the whole of the Island of
New Guinea, as the most of the Names are in these 2 Languages; and such
part of the Coast as we were upon I found the Chart tolerable good, which
obliges me to give some Credit to all the rest, notwithstanding we
neither know by whom or when they were taken, and I always understood,
before I had a sight of these Maps, that it was unknown whether or no New
Holland and New Guinea was not one continued land, and so it is said in
the very History of Voyages these Maps are bound up in. However, we have
now put this wholy out of dispute; but, as I believe, it was known
before, tho' not publicly, I claim no other Merit than the Clearing up of
a doubtful point. Another doubtfull point I should have liked to have
clear'd up, altho' it is of very little, if of any Consequence, which is,
whether the Natives of New Holland and those of New Guinea are, or were,
Original, one People, which one might well suppose, as these 2 Countrys
lay so near to each other, and the intermediate space fill'd up with
Islands. On the other hand, if these 2 people have or ever had any
friendly communication with Each other it seems strange, as I have before
observed, that they should not have transplanted from New Guinea over to
New Holland Cocoa Nutts, Bread fruit, Plantains, etc., etc., all very
useful Articles for the support of Man, that We never saw grow in the
latter, and which we have now seen in the former. La Maire hath given us
a Vocabulary of Words spoken by the People of New Britain (which before
Dampier's time was taken to be a part of New Guinea), by which it appears
that the people of New Britain speak a very different Language from those
of New Holland. Now should it be found that the Natives of New Britain
and those of New Guinea have had One Origin, and speak the same Language,
it will follow, of Course, that the New Hollanders are a different People
from both.In the north of Australia the natives are distinctly
allied to the Papuans, but on the east of the continent they are of a
type of their own, and speak many different languages.

[Off South-west Coast of New Guinea.]

Tuesday, 4th. Stood to the Westward all this day, having at first a
moderate breeze Southerly, which afterwards freshned and Veered to
South-East and East-South-East. We keept on sounding all the time, having
from 14 to 30 fathoms not regular, but sometimes more and sometimes less.
At noon we were in 14 fathoms; by observation in the Latitude of 6
degrees 44 minutes South, Longitude 223 degrees 51 minutes West. Course
and distance sail'd since Yesteday Noon South 76 minutes West, 120 Miles.

Wednesday, 5th. Winds at East by South and South-East by East, a fresh
gale and Clear weather, with which were run 118 Miles upon a South 69
degrees 15 minutes West Course, which at Noon brought us into the
Latitude of 7 degrees 25 minutes South, Longitude 225 degrees 41 minutes
West; depth of Water 28 fathoms, having been in soundings the whole of
this day's run, generally between 10 and 20 fathoms. At half an hour past
one in the Morning we past by a small low Island, which bore from us at
that time North-North-West, distant 3 or 4 Miles; depth of Water 14
fathoms, and at daylight we discover'd another low Island extending from
North-North-West and North-North-East, distant 2 or 3 Leagues. I believe
I should have landed upon this Island to have known its produce, as it
did not appear to be very small, had not the wind blown too fresh for
such an undertaking, and at the time we passed the Island we had only 10
fathoms Water, a rocky bottom; I was therefore afraid of running down to
leeward for fear of meeting with Shoal Water and foul ground. These
Islands have no place on the Charts, unless they are the Arrow Isles,
which, if they are, they are laid down much too far from New Guinea. I
found the South part of these to lay in the Latitude 7 degrees 6 minutes
South, Longitude 225 degrees 0 minutes West.These were probably
Karang and Ennu Islands, two outliers of the Arru Islands.

Thursday, 6th. A steady fresh gale at East by South and clear weather,
with which we steer'd West-South-West. At 7 in the Evening we took in the
small Sails, reefd the Topsails, and sounded, having 50 fathoms; we still
keept West-South-West all night, going at the rate of 4 1/2 Miles an
hour. At 10 had 42 fathoms; at 11, 37; and at 12 o'Clock 45; 1 o'Clock
49; and at 3, 120; after which we could get no ground. In the evening we
caught 2 Boobies, which settled upon the rigging, and these were the
first of the kind we have caught in this manner the voyage, altho' I have
heard of them being caught this way in great numbers. At daylight, in the
Morning, we made all the sail we could, and at 10 o'Clock saw land
extending from North-North-West to West by North, distant 5 or 6 League.
At Noon it bore from North to West about the same distance; our Latitude
by observation was 8 degrees 15 minutes South, Longitude 227 degrees 47
minutes West. This land is of an even and moderate height, and by our run
from New Guinea ought to be a part of the Arrow Isles;This was the
southern part of the Tenimber Islands. but it lays a degree farther to
the South than any of these Islands are laid down in the Charts. We
sounded, but had no ground, with 50 fathoms of Line.

[Remarks on Charts.]

Friday, 7th. As I was not able to satisfy myself from any Chart what land
it was we saw to Leeward of us, and fearing it might trend away more
Southerly, and the weather being hazey so that we could not see far, we
steer'd South-West, which Course by 4 o'Clock run us out of sight of the
land; by this I was assured that no part of it lay to the Southward of 8
degrees 15 minutes South. We continued standing to the South-West all
night under an Easey sail, having the advantage of a fresh gale at
South-East by East and East-South-East, and clear moon light; we sounded
every hour, but had no bottom with 100 and 120 fathoms of line. At
daylight in the Morning we steer'd West-South-West, and afterwards West
by South, which by Noon brought us into the Latitude of 9 degrees 30
minutes South, and Longitude 229 degrees 34 minutes West, and by our run
from New Guinea ought to be in sight of Wessels Isle, which, according to
the Chart is laid down about 20 or 25 Leagues from the coast of New
Holland; but we saw nothing, by which I conclude that it is wrong laid
down; and this is not to be wonder'd at when we consider that not only
these Islands, but the lands which bound this Sea have been discover'd
and explored by different people and at different times, and compiled and
put together by others, perhaps some Ages after the first discoveries
were made. Navigation formerly wanted many of these helps towards keeping
an Accurate Journal which the present Age is possessed of; it is not they
that are wholy to blame for the faultiness of the Charts, but the
Compilers and Publishers, who publish to the world the rude Sketches of
the Navigator as Accurate surveys, without telling what authority they
have for so doing; for were they to do this we should then be as good or
better judge than they, and know where to depend upon the Charts, and
where not. Neither can I clear Seamen of this fault; among the few I have
known who are Capable of drawing a Chart or Sketch of a Sea Coast I have
generally, nay, almost always, observed them run into this error. I have
known them lay down the line of a Coast they have never seen, and put
down Soundings where they never have sounded; and, after all, are so fond
of their performances as to pass the whole off as Sterling under the
Title of a Survey Plan, etc. These things must in time be attended with
bad Consequences, and cannot fail of bringing the whole of their works in
disrepute.Cook had good reason for writing thus, and being himself
scrupulously honest and careful, he felt this scamped work to be a
disgrace to seamen. If he is so modest as to say, Such and such parts,
or the whole of his plan is defective, the Publishers or Vendures will
have it left out, because they say it hurts the sale of the work; so that
between the one and the other we can hardly tell when we are possessed of
a good Sea Chart until we ourselves have proved it.

Saturday, 8th. Winds Easterly, with a high Sea from the same Quarter. Our
Course and distance sail'd this 24 Hours is South 86 degrees 30 minutes
West, 102 Miles; Latitude in 9 degrees 36 minutes South, Longitude 231
degrees 17 minutes West.

Sunday, 9th. Light Airs and Clear weather the most part of this 24 Hours.
In the evening found the Variation by several Azimuths to be 0 degrees 12
minutes West, and by the Amplitude 0 degrees 5 minutes West. At Noon we
were by observation in the Latitude of 9 degrees 46 minutes South,
Longitude 232 degrees 7 minutes West. Course and distance sail'd since
yesterday at Noon South 78 degrees 45 minutes West, 52 Miles. For these 2
days past we have steer'd due West, and yet we have by observation made
16 Miles Southing — 6 Miles Yesterday and 10 to-day; from which it should
seem that there is a Current setting to the Southward and Westward
withall, as I should suppose.

Monday, 10th. Light Airs Easterly, except in the morning, when we had it
at North; at sunset found the Variation to be 0 degrees 2 minutes West,
at the same time saw, or thought we saw, very high land bearing
North-West, and in the Morning saw the same appearances of land in the
same Quarter, which left us no room to doubt but what it was land, and
must be either the Island of Timor land or Timor, but which of the 2 I
cannot as yet determine.This was Timor. What Cook calls Timor land
is probably Timor Laut, another name for the principal island of the
Tenimber Group. At Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude of 10
degrees 1 minute South, which was 15 Miles to the Southward of that given
by the Log. Longitude in per Observation 233 degrees 27 minutes West.

Tuesday, 11th. Variable light Airs and Clear weather. Steer'd North-West,
in order to discover the Land plainer until 4 in the morning, at which
time the wind came to North-West and West, with which we stood to the
Southward until 9 o'Clock, when we Tack'd and stood North-West, having
the wind at West-South-West. At sun rise in the morning we could see the
land extend from West-North-West to North-East; at noon we could see it
extend to the Westward as far as West by South 1/2 South, but no farther
to the Eastward than North by East. We were now well assured that this
was part of the Island of Timor, in consequence of which the last Island
we saw must have been Timor land, the South part of which lies in the
Latitude of 8 degrees 15 minutes South, Longitude 228 degrees 10 minutes,
whereas in the Charts the South Point is laid down in Latitude 9 degrees
30 minutes. It is possible that the Land we saw might be some other
Island; but then I cannot see how we could have miss'd seeing Timor land,
soposing it to be right laid down in Latitude, as we were never to the
Southward of 9 degrees 30 minutes; for my design was to have made that
Island, and to have landed upon it to have seen what it produced, as it
is (according to the Charts) a large Island, and not settled by the Dutch
that I ever heard off. We were now in the Latitude of 9 degrees 37
minutes, Longitude 233 degrees 54 minutes West by observation of the Sun
and Moon, and Yesterday we were by Observation in 233 degrees 27 minutes
West. The difference is 27 minutes, which is exactly the same as what the
Log gave; this, however, is a degree of accuracy in observation that is
seldom to be expected.

[Off South Coast of Timor.]

Wednesday, 12th. Winds between the South and West, a light breeze and
Clear weather in the P.M.; stood in shore until 8 o'Clock, then Tack'd
and stood off, being about 6 Leagues from the Land, which at dark extend
from South-West 1/2 West to North-East; at this time we sounded and had
no ground with 140 fathoms of line, being not above 4 Leagues from the
Land. At 12 o'Clock we Tack'd and stood in, having but little wind, and
continued so until noon, at which time we were by Observation in Latitude
9 degrees 36 minutes South; the Log this 24 Hours gave 18 Miles Westing,
but it did not appear by the land that we had made so much. We saw
several Smoaks upon the Land by day, and fires in the Night.

Thursday, 13th. Stood in shore, with a light breeze at South by West
until 1/2 past 5 o'Clock in the P.M., when, being a Mile and a 1/2 from
the Shore, and in 16 fathoms, we tack'd and stood off. At this time the
Extreams of the Land extended from North-East by East to West by South
1/2 South; this last was a low point, distant from us about 3 Leagues. We
were right before a small Creek or Inlet into the low land, which lies in
the Latitude of 9 degrees 34 minutes South. Probably it might be the same
as Dampier went into in his Boat, for it did not seem to have depth of
Water sufficient for anything else. In standing in shore we sounded
several times, but found no soundings until we got within 2 1/2 Miles of
the Shore, where we had 25 fathoms, soft bottom. We stood off Shore until
12 o'Clock, with the wind at South, then Tack'd and stood to the Westward
2 Hours, when the wind veer'd to the South-West and West-South-West, and
then we stood to the Southward. In the Morning found the Variation to be
1 degree 10 minutes West by the Amplitude, and by the Azimuth 1 degree 27
minutes West; at Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude of 9 degrees
45 minutes South, Longitude 234 degrees 12 minutes West, and about 6 or 7
Leagues from the land, which extended from North 31 degrees East to
West-South-West 1/2 West. Winds at South-South-West, a Gentle breeze.

Friday, 14th. Light Land and Sea breezes; the former we had from West by
North, and only a few hours in the morning, the latter we had from the
South-South-West and South. With these winds we advanced but slowly to
the Westward. At Noon we were about 6 or 7 Leagues from the Land, which
extended from North by East to South 78 degrees West; our Latitude by
Observation was 9 degrees 54 minutes South. Course and Distance sail'd
since Yesterday noon South 68 degrees West, 24 Miles. We saw several
Smoakes ashore in the P.M., and fires in the night, both upon the Low
land and up in the Mountains.

Saturday, 15th. In the P.M. had the Sea breezes at South-South-West and
South, with which we stood to the Westward until 8 o'Clock, when being
about 3 Leagues from the Land, and having very little wind, we tack'd and
lay her Head off Shore. At 11 o'Clock we got the Land wind at North by
West, with which we steer'd South-West by West along shore, keeping about
4 or 5 Miles from the Land on which in the morning we saw several Houses,
Plantations, etc. At 9 o'Clock we got the wind at North-East by East, a
light breeze; at Noon we were about 2 Leagues from the Land, which
extended as far to the Southward as South-West by West; our Latitude by
observation was 10 degrees 1 minute South. Course and Distance sail'd
since Yesterday at Noon South 78 degrees 45 minutes West, 36 Miles.

Sunday, 16th. Light breezes from the North-East by East, with clear
weather, except in the morning, when we had it cloudy, with a few small
Showers of Rain. Steer'd along shore South-West and South-West by West
until 6 o'Clock in the morning, when we steer'd West-South-West, and at
9, West, at which time we saw the Island Rotte right ahead. At Noon we
were in the Latitude of 10 degrees 39 minutes, Longitude 235 degrees 57
minutes; the South end of Timor bore North-North-West, distant 5 or 6
Leagues; the Island of Rotte extending from South 75 degrees West to
North 67 degrees West, and the Island of Anaboa as Dampier calls it, or
SemanSemao. This island lies off the Dutch settlement of Koepang or
Concordia in Timor; but Cook was right in supposing he would have
received but a cold reception there. The Dutch discouraged any visits at
their outlying settlements. Rotte is a large island lying off the
south-west end of Timor. as it is called in the Charts, which lies of
the South end of Timor, bore North-West. Course and distance sail'd since
Yesterday noon South 55 degrees 15 minutes West, 67 Miles. Dampier, who
has given us a large and, so far as I know, an Accurate discription of
the Island of Timor, says that it is 70 Leagues long and 16 Broad, and
that it lies North-East and South-West. I found the East side to lie
nearest North-East by East and South-West by West, and the South end to
lie in the Latitude 10 degrees 23 minutes South, Longitude 236 degrees 5
minutes West from Greenwich. We run about 45 Leagues along the East side,
which I observed to be free from Danger, and, excepting near the South
end, the Land which bounds the Sea is low for 2, 3, or 4 Miles inland,
and seem'd in many places to be intersected with Salt Creeks. Behind the
low land are Mountains, which rise one above another to a considerable
height. We continually saw upon it smoakes by day and fires by night, and
in many places houses and plantations. I was strongly importuned by some
of my Officers to go to the Dutch settlement at Concordia, on this
Island, for refreshments; but this I refused to comply with, knowing that
the Dutch look upon all Europeans with a Jealous Eye that come among
these Islands, and our necessities were not so great as to oblige me to
put into a place where I might expect to be but indifferently treated.

[Anchor at Savu.]

Monday, 17th. Winds Easterly, with which we steer'd West-North-West until
2 o'Clock, when being pretty near the North end of Rotte, we hauled up
North-North-West, in order to go between it and Anaboa. After steering 3
Leagues upon this Course we edged away North-West by West, and by 6 we
were clear of all the Islands; at this time the South part of Anaboa,
which lies in the Latitude of 10 degrees 15 minutes South, bore
North-East, distant 4 Leagues, and the Island of Rotte extending as far
to the Southward as South 36 degrees West. The North End of this Island
and the South end of Timor lies North 1/2 East and 1/2 West, distant
about 3 or 4 Leagues from each other. At the West end of the Passage
between Rotte and Anaboa are two Small Islands; the one lays near the
Rotte shore and the other off the South-West point of Anaboa; there is a
good Channel between the 2 of 5 or 6 Miles broad, which we came thro'.
Being now clear of the Islands we steer'd a West course all night until 6
a.m., when we unexpectedly saw an IslandSavu. An island about twenty
miles in length. It is but little visited or known by others than the
Dutch to this day. bearing West-South-West, for by most of the Maps we
had on board we were to the Southward of all the Islands that lay between
Timor and Java; at least th Category: